A Road Trip Every Texan Should Make
From the Hill Country to Big Bend, summertime calls for a westward journey.
Words Jessi Devenyns & Ashley Bowling Photos Baptiste Despois & Will Bowling
Nothing is deeper in the heart of Texas than the extensive vistas and uninhabited basin of the state’s western edge. From the burnt sienna of the Chisos Mountains to the goldenrod grasses dotting the dusty violet of the high desert, the watercolors of West Texas beckon adventurers looking for sights not often seen. Skip the conventional destinations this summer, and make the journey to one of the farthest-flung regions in the Lone Star State. Interstate 10 invites travelers to marvel at the surreal beauty that unfurls on an impossible scale in the landscapes of West Texas.
Pedernales Falls State Park
Wild Waters in the Hill Country
The entrance to Pedernales Falls State Park frames a quintessential view of the Texas Hill Country. Eight square miles of rolling limestone hills topped with oak and juniper woodlands scent the summer air and attunes the senses to a slower, natural state of being.
While there is much to be explored on the park’s trails, including Trammell’s Crossing, Twin Falls, and Headquarters Overlook, the site that draws visitors in is Pedernales Falls themselves. Barring severe drought, water streams down the Marble Falls limestone, tumbling into eddies and underwater caverns as it flows over rocks that have a history stretching back over 300 million years.
Wander across the storied stones and cool off while looking for fossils embedded in the layers of worn rock. For safety reasons, the park service does not allow swimming in the falls, but there is plenty to discover along the banks that are defined by a variety of geological formations which display Texas history on an ancient scale.
The shallow sea that historically covered the region has seen successive changes over the millennia. Today, that sea is a river surrounded by wooded banks and rocky cliffs that visitors from all over Central Texas come to enjoy under the summer sun.
2585 Park Rd. 6026, Johnson City, TX
Monahans Sandhills State Park
The Sands of Time
The Sahara Desert does not hold a monopoly on picturesque sand dunes. Only two hours away from Marfa (and 6 hours from Austin), this state park preserves nature’s tranquility among its miles of snow-white dunes that roll as far as the eye can see. Monahans may be the only state park where kicking off shoes is encouraged – literally. Walking on the shifting sands that morph to create a natural tableau of soft monochrome colors and allowing the imagination to wander is a playful treat.
If something a touch more sporty is in order, be sure to borrow a sand disk to glide down the dunes as if they were the bunny slopes at a ski resort. The advantage over skiing here is the weather; even if the days live up to the reputation of the dry, desert heat, as soon as the sun sinks into a pool of crimson, rose, and indigo, the air becomes crisp, and the sky turns into a canvas filled with endless stars.
Exit 86, 2500 I-20, Monahans, TX
Davis Mountains State Park
The Beginning of the American Southwest
Davis Mountains State Park is one of the oldest Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) projects in Texas, which means the park dates back to the presidency of Franklin D. Roosevelt. Since its inception, the park has provided winding trails for hikers to meander into valleys and crest mountain ridges. One of the signature routes in the park is the Skyline Drive Trail which provides 4.5 miles for hikers and mountain bikers to enjoy uninterrupted panoramic views. Another well-trodden and history-filled path, the 1.75-mile Civilian Conservation Corps Trail, guides hikers to the fascinating Fort Davis National Historic Site.
While there, be sure to stop at the Indian Lodge. Currently under renovation, the mesa-style building situated in a desert basin is a 39-room, full-service hotel that includes stucco fireplaces in the suites and original furnishings from the 1930s. Even if the rooms are unavailable for a night’s stay, there are plenty of campgrounds available to enjoy this unspoiled nature.
For those who prefer longer loops powered by motor vehicles, Scenic Loop Drive is a 75-mile roadway that takes travelers across acres of arid terrain punctuated by the electric blooms of succulents, the chartreuse foliage of the occasional tree, and the iridescent feathers of one of the many birds fluttering in the West Texas breeze.
TX-118 N, Park Road 3, Fort Davis, TX
McDonald Observatory
The Stars at Night are Big and Bright…
The infinite universe of the Milky Way has never been so close as it is to the McDonald Observatory. Home to four of the world’s largest telescopes, including the Hobby-Eberly Telescope, this West Texas observation center opened in 1939 and has since expanded to house scientists from a range of global universities who track the night skies.
Amateur stargazers are also welcome here at one of the evening Star Parties where guides orient attendees to the constellation map of sky before changing perspectives by opening the heavens through a telescope. Keep eyes peeled for shooting stars. Out west, they frequently illuminate the darkness.
For those who don’t have time to camp out under the stars, come early and watch the sunset as astronomers calibrate the hexagonal mirrors that reflect the universe back to Earth. Shortly after the last rays of light disappear, the observatory roof slides back to reveal a quilt of darkness tufted with shimmering beads.
Upon closer inspection, these twinkling lights transform into balls of fire whose intensity is measured using color. What appears white to the naked eye is really gradients of blues, reds, and purples that tell stories of a star’s age, distance, and position relative to Earth. Under the expanse of the universe, it is easy to reset perspectives, which is exactly what summer vacation is for.
mcdonaldobservatory.org, 3640 Dark Sky Drive, McDonald Observatory, TX
Marfa
A Secluded Oasis for Artistic Meditation
While the legend of the Marfa lights remains to be proven (or disproven), an extraterrestrial encounter that can certainly be found in this West Texas town is the geography. For as far as the eye can see, the desert flows, only interrupted by spotted tufts of scrubby flora and the occasional antelope or ibex.
Under the white light of the desert sun, the bleached walls of the town shelter dozens of galleries dedicated to the arts. From painting and sculpture to multi-media installations and conceptual pieces, the tranquility of this small town is the perfect canvas for imagining an alternative way of life.
When the sun descends behind the far-flung horizon, town lights in the evening are a welcome beacon, and all paths on the small urban grid lead to Highland Street where visitors can stop in at Hotel Paisano for a good time. The revelry begins after sundown when the entrance courtyard is transformed into a patio laden with company, fresh beverages, and Texas-sized portions of southern comfort food such as the Pistachio Fried Steak and Lemon Penne Pasta.
The historic property first opened in 1930 and was the filming location for the 1956 film Giant starring James Dean, Elizabeth Taylor, and Rock Hudson. Although the establishment was extensively renovated in the early aughts, Old Hollywood glam still seeps through. Well-worn terracotta tiles pair elegantly with the indoor-outdoor living that plays out in the hotel’s cypress-scented air.
For a more contemporary touch, head to the Hotel Saint George where industrial whitewashed walls serve as conscientiously curated gallery walls displaying local paintings, sculptures, photography, and multi-media crafts. Though the hotel has been renovated to include all the modern luxuries any guest would need, Hotel Saint George has been a part of Marfa’s story since 1886. Likewise, this new incarnation has become the communal epicenter of Marfa and a comfortable landing spot for Texas old-timers and contemporary art pilgrims visiting the art mecca.
A meal at Saint George’s LaVenture treats patrons to fresh local fare with southwestern influences that tickle the tastebuds, such as their homemade bacon jam which comes on their fresh-baked sourdough toast at breakfast or on their HSG Burger at suppertime. Guests can also enjoy a light menu and carefully crafted cocktails poolside with cool desert vibes under the bright Texas sun.
Hotel Paisano
hotelpaisano.com
207 Highland St.
Hotel Saint George
marfasaintgeorge.com
105 S Highland Ave.
Big Bend National Park
Unparalleled & Unconventional Natural Beauty
In the bitter edge of Texas country are some of the most breathtaking landscapes and clearest skies around. These vast vistas are only broken by tonal gradients of color cast by the Chisos Mountains that partially outline the border between the United States and Mexico.
Big Bend National Park spans miles of mountains and 800,000 acres of desert terrain making this Texas-sized land conservation the 15th-largest national park. While a solitary road cuts through the park and guides visitors to some of the most colorful desert landscapes in the American Southwest, hopping off the beaten path is recommended.
As soon as a trail leaves the paved road, it is clear to city dwellers how heavy silence can weigh. But listen for a moment. Nature swells in the sound of wind winding through canyons as echoes of laughter reverberate from miles downstream. Birds of prey sail overhead, watchful over the shimmering landscape before coming to roost in cliffside alcoves.
The desert heat shimmers along trails of crushed limestone in diametric contrast to what the landscape once was. Roughly 500 million years ago, Big Bend’s peaks and valleys were hidden by the ocean floor. The only evidence of this is the thousands of bivalves preserved within the layers of limestone that line every turn.
Ascend the peaks that define the park’s topography, and take a break at the various overlooks that dot the park. Look out as far as the eye can see, which in the unpolluted air, is over 16 miles. Spot Emory Peak or Elephant Tusk in the distance, and remember where they are to keep oriented during the long hikes along the South Rim Trail.
Alternatively, break the staggering scale and temperatures of this park by jumping into the Rio Grande. Hiking through Santa Elena Canyon means fording the waterway to reach the opposite bank before trekking up the cliff face past otherworldly cacti and flowering succulents. In only a half-mile, the landscape transports hikers into a shaded oasis defined by the hushed ripple of the river and the occasional splash of swimmers. While the trail eventually ends, ambitious individuals can continue the journey by wading downriver alongside kayakers streaming by, sheltered from the desert sun by the canyon’s ridge, which rises 1,500 feet.
If an easy hike is what is needed, try Window View Trail. Walk the paved path leading to a natural cut in the mountain range that creates a “window” through which the sun sets in a spectacular end to a day parade of pastels. nps.gov/bibe, 1 Panther Junction, Big Bend National Park, TX
StarStruck Glamping
Plug into Wilderness
Those who dream of going off the grid can now ease themselves into the experience at StarStruck Glamping. This ultimate luxury travel experience is for those seeking to escape the mundane and embrace the extraordinary. Completely solar-powered, this luxury retreat is as off the beaten path as it gets. Four geodesic domes are strewn across Terlingua Ranch, offering unobstructed views of the unforgettable sunrises and sunsets native to the western reaches of Texas.
Modern amenities and plush bedding will undoubtedly be a welcome sight for weary travelers who spend the day traipsing around the dusty desert of Big Bend. Enjoy the comfort of a climate-controlled geodesic dome, running water, an outdoor kitchen, and lounge chairs clustered around a fire pit. In the evenings, guests can gather around the campfire, enjoy a glass of wine, and gaze up at the stars. With minimal light pollution, the tents are strategically placed to maximize privacy while gazing at the night’s sky, and each site comes with its own telescope to enhance the experience.
As night descends, the patchwork of stars begins to peek out on the world’s largest Dark Sky Reserve. If the weather is right and the hour is late enough, the Milky Way will make an appearance along with a kaleidoscope of shooting stars as the extra cherry on top of this dreamy starstruck experience.
starstruckglamping.com, 1601 Loma Prieta Rd., Alpine, TX
Team Picks: Our Favorite State Parks near Austin
- Colorado Bend State Park
- Blanco State Park
- Guadalupe River State Park
- Lost Maples State Natural Area
- Inks Lake State Park
- Pedernales Falls State Park
- South Llano River State Park
- McKinney Falls State Park
- Enchanted Rock State Natural Area
- Bastrop State Park
Looking for a place to stay? Check out the Texas State Parks with the best cabins.
Balmorhea State Park
Just 30 minutes north of the Davis Mountains lies Balmorhea State Park, an oasis in the heart of the desert. Balmorhea boasts the world’s largest spring-fed pool. The crystal-clear waters here span 1.3 acres, holding 3.5 million gallons. At least 15 million gallons of water from San Solomon Springs flow through the pool each day. As if this gigantic spring-fed marvel wasn’t enough to view on its own, swimmers can take respite in the high Texas sun. Water temperatures fluctuate between 72 and 76 degrees year-round, making it ideal for swimming, snorkeling, and scuba diving in any season. Balmorhea’s waters are home to Mexican tetra fish and the Texas spiny softshell turtle, in addition to the endangered Pecos gambusia and the Comanche Spring pupfish, which can be found nowhere else in the world. The park is an important habitat for numerous plant and animal species, including desert mule deer, javelinas, and a variety of bird species. The park’s unique blend of desert and aquatic environments attracts visitors from all over the world which means reservations are highly recommended in the summer months.
9207 TX-17, Toyahvale, TX
Favorite Texas Parks that are Worth the Drive
- Garner State Park
- Caprock Canyons State Park & Trailway
- Monahans Sandhills State Park
- Dinosaur Valley State Park
- Palo Duro Canyon State Park
- Caddo Lake State Park
- Big Bend Ranch State Park
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