Seafood is Reimagined at Este
Este Brings Mexico’s Coastal Region to Austin
Words by Abby L. Johnson Photos by Baptiste Despois
The briny scent of the sea is absent in Central Texas, but crossing the threshold of this bright and airy seafood restaurant, one can almost catch a whiff of the salty ocean breeze.
The minds behind Suerte, owner Sam Hellman-Mass and Chef Fermin Nunez, bring Mexican seafood to East Austin with the same level of service and attention to detail patrons have come to expect of the duo. While tacos and tortas are familiar to Austinites, there is a lack of eastern Mexican cuisine, and Este sets out to fill the gap.
Every aspect of Este is well-designed to enhance the senses. It’s the minute details that make the space spectacular. The booths are clothed in textural Oaxacan fabric. Coastal-inspired art sets the scene, and a backdrop of ocean blue and sunny yellow tiles, made in Guadalajara, makes it easy to forget where you are. A curated record collection enhances the warm ambience. But of course, the food is the star of the show. Oysters on the half shell, accompanied by salsa Negra, lime, and house made hot sauce gracing the tables, cause eyes to widen in delight at the take on a familiar coastal dish with an elegant twist.
The menu celebrates traditional dishes that will feel familiar to those in the know, but it also serves as a playground for Chef Fermin’s imagination. Sam exuberantly explains, like a proud family member, the care and innovation Fermin brought to the creation of the Trout a la Pulla. He looked to the famous French dish Salmon with Sorrel and seamlessly translated its basic ideas into an ebullient rendition all his own. “Fermin twisted [it] around and made the Trout a la Pulla. He made it Mexican seafood where instead of salmon, it’s trout. And instead of a French sorrel cream sauce, it’s a dried chili cream sauce draped over top with a little bit of chili oil and trout roe. It’s quickly become one of the standout dishes of all the staff and guests.”
It’s Fermin’s ideas, pushing the boundaries of what Mexican seafood can be, that make Este exceptional. Having big dreams, Sam explains, “I look at places that are institutions in Austin, such as Uchi. Who would have ever thought that there would be a world class sushi restaurant in the middle of Texas 20 years ago? I want to recreate that in our own way, because it’s exciting to do what we’re doing with seafood and show people what flavors of charcoal cooking and Mexican seafood with a Texas sun can taste like in a place in Austin.”
Beyond the incredible menu and atmosphere, the hospitality draws patrons back in, time and time again. Sam smiles, “Whether you live in the neighborhood and you walk over here for a seat at the bar, or if you’re driving from another part of town, we just want to receive you with open arms.”
Contact:
2113 Manor Rd.
esteatx.com
@esteatx
