Mountain Highs & Open Skies

Words & Photos by Ashley Bowling

Being a busy family and running a multi-faceted business oftentimes doesn’t leave much margin for planning a trip. So when we travel, which we often do, we like to take the first day or two to just recharge, catch our breaths, and get the lay of the land. It’s important to escape the hustle and bustle of the office and prior commitments and just breathe. Nothing compares to breathing in crisp mountain air, watching eagles peacefully soar through the valleys, or catching a glimpse of the chipmunks scattering across the rainbow colored rocks. 

Start the retreat on the less-frequented east side of Glacier National Park in Essex, Montana. Known for its excessive rivers, this area is a fly-fisher’s paradise. Being the less crowded side, it can also be an introvert’s dream and an avid hiker’s great escape!

For a truly unique experience, stay at Izaak Walton Inn where visitors can immerse themselves in railroad history while staying in a rail-car cabin, perhaps even a caboose. Though their rail-cars book quickly, there is also a lodge where last minute travelers, like us, can stay. This forest-filled locale is a considerable distance from coffee shops and grocers, so be sure to load up on the necessities in Columbia Falls before heading out. 

While there, venture out to Goat Lick Overlook. Make sure to bring a lens, and get ready to spot some wildlife as they forage, taking in their daily minerals. For an easy hike, pull over at Bear Creek and follow the trail along the river bank. Another scenic 3.5 mile hike will lead adventurists to Stanton Lake for picturesque views of the surrounding mountain ranges. Immersing oneself in nature is very easy on this side of the park. Just be sure to carry some bear spray. For those who prefer to be more planned out, horseback riding, ziplining, and white water rafting are available at various outfitters, and even a 9-hole golf course is open at the Historic East Village Lodge. 

At East Village, there are a few trails that must be checked off the bucket list. Starting just beyond East Village at Many Glacier, known for its peaks and sparkling turquoise lakes, tempting trails for all comfort levels are plentiful. Visitors can even explore the scenic area by boat on Grinnell Lake or on horseback. Be sure to catch the short two mile hike to Apikuni Falls where the waterfall and dipping pool at the end make the slight elevation gain worth it. Or try to catch a glimpse of a moose at Fishercap Lake, then head on to Red Rock Falls trail. Those up for a longer hike should certainly make the trek to see the active Grinnell Glacier where mini-icebergs float in glacial blue waters. Or, try your legs at Iceberg Lake Trail (9 miles), but be on the lookout for grizzlies and always carry bear spray just in case. If you’ve seen the insta-images of Glacier National Park, it’s highly likely that you’ve laid eyes on Wild Goose Island in the middle of St. Mary’s Lake. The viewpoint is only 6.5 miles west of St. Mary’s entrance and is best captured at sunrise. If you’re not packing a lunch, be sure to grab a bite to eat at Nell’s at Swiftcurrent. 

After a few days acclimating to the altitude and soaking in the quiet and beauty that east Glacier has to offer, head to the more travelled west side of the park. Lake McDonald Lodge sits within the boundary of the park and quite arguably has one of the best views. We suggest staying in the quaint log cabins nestled in the pines along the lake shore. Though the cabins are outfitted with a kitchen, try Jammer Joe’s pizza joint where the food and beer are reasonably priced.

Start the day at the base of the park at Trail of the Cedars. This trail is wheelchair and stroller accessible, and though it’s nondescript at first, it carries some amazing surprises like turquoise waters flowing through mossy rock bluffs. Just 20 steps up, beyond the end of the wooden boardwalk, there are more crevices and canyons carved out by swift flowing water, a perfect spot for an afternoon snack. Carry on to Avalanche Trail for a simple, yet no longer stroller accessible, hike to a stunning light blue lake with waterfalls flowing in from the melting snow. Catching a glimpse of a black bear playing in the driftwood logs across the way, like we did, is quite possible. Though it’s about five miles round trip, even the oldest and tiniest of hikers can achieve this one, and it’s end beauty is worth every single step. 

Carry on to Sacred Dancing Cascade where one can explore as much or as little as they’d like. We opted to cross the bridge and hike upriver in early morning and caught a glance of a big black bear taking his morning swim in the river. Stroll downriver, past McDonald Falls, all the way to where the river meets Lake McDonald. This view of the lake is completely different from the shores near the lodge and has evidence of moose and bear crossings at the water’s edge. 

On day four, get to Logan’s Pass early as it offers two of the best hikes in Glacier, and they are popular for good reason. Behind the visitor’s center is a boardwalk that transports guests to another world as they make the boardwalk trek to Hidden Lake Overlook. It’s a three mile trip to the overlook and back, where mountain goats graze in the beautiful fields of green grass usually greet hikers, and winding streams and spouts of colorful flowers canvas the landscape along the way. Once at the overlook, one can continue on for another three miles round trip to the base at Hidden Lake, which we dubbed Shimmery Shiny Lake because it really is sparkling in the summer sun. 

Back at Logan’s Pass Visitor’s Center, cross the road to Highline Trail, making sure to look back at the cliffs as you cross because it’s a popular bighorn sheep hangout. Highline Trail is a long back country hike; in fact, adventurists could hike all the way to Canada if they so choose. We hiked about a mile out then turned around. The highlight of this trail is at the beginning, walking along the very edge of the mountain. It’s tight in places, but there is rope to hold onto. Both of our eight year olds conquered it like champs. 

Just beyond Logan’s Pass is Pigeon’s Pass which is a wildlife frequenting area. Stroll up the creek until the turn off, or dip your toes into the water to cool off in the midday sun. Continue on Going to the Sun Road, and make a stop at St. Mary’s and Virginia Falls for some mesmerizing views of multiple water falls. St. Mary’s falls about 35 feet in three separate tiers with the first being most photogenic. Virginia Falls is worth the extra time as it’s captured by a blue green pool below the footbridge. The round trip stroll through the forest will offer up lots of berry snacking along the way until you reach stunning Virginia Falls. 

Travel tip: Yes, driving through Glacier National Park is grand, and visitors can take in some amazing views. But to really capture the brilliance of Glacier, hiking is the only way to fully experience its majesty.

Treat Yourself: After a day of exploring, nothing beats the cool creaminess of huckleberry ice cream. Stop by Golfing to the Sun Mini Golf on your way out of the park for unique flavors only Montana can offer. Of course, you can’t go wrong with anything huckleberry but chocolate-lovers must also try a scoop or two of Moose Tracks!

Outside the Park, Whitefish has a public beach where travelers can rent kayaks, take a dip in the cool waters, or just bask in the sun on the shore. Whitefish is also home to the Whitefish Mountain Resort for a plethora of activities such as a ropes course, ziplining, mountain biking, and a gondola ride to the top of the resort for epic views and a bite at their Restaurant & Bar or a tour their Nature Museum. For more places to eat and drink, try Gunsight Saloon in Columbia Falls where there is live outdoor music pretty much every night in the summer. 

Whether visiting the Glacier area for four or fourteen days, there is no shortage of breathtaking views, wide open skies, and endless activities. It’s truly a remarkable part of the country begging to be explored.