Palatable Paleta
A Refreshing Summer Sip
Words Tanya White | Photos Baptiste Despois
Family recipes shine at Los Mangos, taking the Mexican popsicle to new levels with fresh fruit and unique flavor combinations. Eastsiders can quench their thirst while bringing the temperature down with mouth-watering, chilling refreshers.
This family-run business has been serving delicious frozen treats on Riverside Drive since 2018, scooping freshly-made ice cream out of a nondescript shopping center. While lines are typically short, the stream of customers is steady with regulars who know exactly what they want. One of the most popular requests is their Mangonada, a frozen non-alcoholic drink that mixes chunks of fresh, ripe mango fruit with mango ice cream. Patrons can get creative by trying the lime ice cream with coconut sprinkles on top. The helpful staff stands ready to make it any way you want it.
Family recipes drive the menu as owner Jesus Luviano likes to stay behind the scenes, concocting new combinations to delight all the repeat customers. “Paletas (popsicles) are common in Mexico, but everyone does it their own way,” explains Elizabeth Luviano, Jesus’s sister, “and we only use fresh ingredients and make everything right there on-site.” Paleta means “little stick,” but there’s nothing little about these flavor combinations. The only thing little are the small batches of frozen treats made with fresh ingredients, no dyes, no preservatives, or additives.
There is a unique texture change when slurping a paleta, as chunks of fruit, sometimes even vegetables, are frozen inside. This cool invention is credited to a family living in a small town in Mexico during the 1940s who followed their passion for creating unique cooling treats. Recipes include both water and milk-based options; at any time, there are over a dozen selections available in the freezer.
The fruit and flavor possibilities are endless at Los Mangos. Nance fruit, common in Central and South America, looks like a yellow cherry and carries a strong odor one might almost call cheesy. The guayaba fruit, known as guava in the U.S., is a brilliant yellow and red combination; it will taste sweet and have a meaty texture. For something even sweeter, try the Gansito ice cream, which is vanilla ice cream stuffed with cream-filled sponge cake pieces, known as the Mexican Twinkie. For salty and sweet fanatics, their watermelon paleta with chile is one of the most popular items in the heat of summer.
A chat with one of the regulars in line will yield plenty of insider tips. It’s obvious that everyone frequenting here has a favorite, and they’re proud to share it.
Native Knowledge: The flavor list for paletas is long at Los Mangos, but it’s not the only item on the menu. In addition to the bank of popsicles and ice cream, cold treats include agua frescas, smoothies, raspas (frozen juice), and sundaes of all sizes.
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