The Pit Eternal

Words Deven Wilson | Editor Ashley Bowling | Photos Baptiste Depois

After Brotherton’s Black Iron Barbecue lost legendary founder and pitmaster, John Brotherton, two young apprentices led the charge to continue a legacy of game-changing flavors he started.

Twenty-eight and twenty-five are hardly ages associated with barbecue pitmasters. This career covets a long history of smoking meats and prioritizes those who are well-seasoned over the years, but despite their ages, Bobby Holley and Dirseo Garay hit the grill running after being thrust into their new roles following John’s sudden passing in early 2024.

“It was a tremendous loss,” Bobby reflects. “John not only was the name and face of the business, but first and foremost, he was also a very clear-cut leader of the whole operation.”

At the same time, they also had to make strides through their grief to ensure John’s hard-earned legacy doesn’t burn out. “Every single f’ing day, from open to close,” Bobby declares with pride, “is for John,” a man who was so dedicated to his craft and community. It was that community support and their sheer determination that kept Brotherton’s lights on. “We’ve had a CPA reach out doing all of our books basically pro bono,” Bobby continues, adding that the barbecue community is always available if they need extra hands. “Hands,” Dirseo explains, “left after John passed,” leaving them to pick up even more slack in John’s absence.

Even though the menu had to be scaled back for the Brotherton’s team to stay operational, guests can expect both a tenacious dedication to every aspect of the barbecue process John set up, including his babies: brisket Loaded Grilled Cheese and Texas Bahn Mi. Both sammies vividly explain how the flavor profile of brisket can make a delicious home in anything. The grilled cheese simply adds a meatier dimension to an American classic, while the Bahn Mi shows off how the richness of meat can pair well with the lightness of the traditionally bright bite of carrots and cucumber inside a doughy baguette.

Brotherton’s approach to barbecue brought an excitement to see how they push its boundaries, and John’s playful spirit will continue to move forward by both Bobby and Dirseo. “I definitely see us exploring fusion.” Bobby adds, “Whether it’s Asian fusion, Mexican fusion, or whatever it is, we want to continue to put great barbecue on plates and stay true to John.”

Contact:
15608 Spring Hill Ln., Ste. 105
pflugervillebarbecue.com