Locals Know Barbecue
From The Big Names to Rising Stars, Culinary Talents in East Austin Are Taking Texas Barbecue to New Heights.
Words Deven Wilson | Editor Ashley Bowling | Photos Baptiste Depois
East Austin’s food scene has expanded its menu tremendously over the years, bringing new and exciting culinary cultures to this corner of the city. Yet, there is one flavor that has continued to not only keep up but also embrace the changes without sacrificing tradition. Locally-grown pitmasters may not always stay on this side of Lady Bird Lake, but their legacy remains rooted in lessons learned on the Eastside, inspired by its rich history in barbecue. East Austin itself has been blessed by the barbecue gods. This mecca of smoked meats boasts legendary pitmasters who continue their traditions directly or indirectly through generations. The long-lasting love for barbecue goes so far that you’ll even find brisket slipped into many culinary delights, including drink offerings, making menus across town even more mouth-watering.
Sticking Around
The Trailer Stands Strong: Micklethwait Craft Meats
After twelve years of accolades and admiration across Texas, the charming trailer Tom Micklethwait built continues to be a beacon for barbecue.
“I didn’t have a direct plan,” Tom Micklethwait, owner and pitmaster of Micklethwait Craft Meats, shares about the early days. He recalls thinking, “I will open this trailer, build a name, and then look for a restaurant space.” While still in his trailer, he did build more than a name for himself. Tom has cooked up a barbecue landmark.
However, Tom and his crew refuse to rest on their laurels or let building out their bar, Saddle Up, steal any of the laser focus it takes to deliver stellar smoked meats. “Part of evolving is keeping it interesting for us and being engaged with it,” Tom elaborates on their growth. Keeping it interesting involves infusing lemon and poppy seeds into their coleslaw, a combo typically reserved for a morning muffin. Such playful additions to their famous sides give an often-ignored accompaniment a reason for customers to balance out room in their stomachs with everything else on their tray.
The Iconic Heavy Weights
La Barbecue
LeAnn Mueller carried La Barbecue into the smoked meat pantheon with sensational sausages, cementing its claim as a barbecue spot for pilgrimage to Austin. Now gone, LeAnn’s legacy lives on as lines continue to form in the hopes of grabbing a legendary spicy link.
Franklin Barbecue
This landmark brisket joint has churned out a hearty roster of rising stars in the barbecue scene. As they continue to cement their status as an icon in the barbecue capital, it might be time to hold official graduation ceremonies so the slow-cooking world knows who to look for as the talent graduates into their own pitmasters.
Does the savory rub for Franklin Barbecue’s brisket season future pitmasters? Aaron Franklin’s landmark menu item must hold a recipe for success since many who are in on the secret advance straight into smoked meat stardom. Their line-worthy brisket has paved a path for new pitmasters to shine.
Local Tip: Try Franklin Barbecue’s Espresso BBQ Sauce.
Did You Know?
At Christmas time, Stiles Switch does a ‘12 days of smoked meats’ collab with other local spots like Bird Bird Biscuit, Eldorado Cafe, and Bonhomie to come up with some crafty smoky creations.
Southern Comforts
Ever wonder who has the best desserts?
Mum Foods: Brown Butter Chess Pie
Dai Due: Pecan Gooey Butter Cake that is soft butter cake with crème fraîche ice cream and citrus feuilletine
LeRoy & Lewis: Banana Pudding Tiramisu
Franklin Barbecue: Ruby’s Dang Pie that is coconut and pineapple
Brotherton’s Black Iron Barbecue: Sopapilla Cheesecake
Hoover’s: Banana Pudding Cheesecake
KG BBQ Oum Ali: Egyptian bread pudding made with puff pastry, cinnamon, whole milk, and mixed nuts
The Rising Stars Making a Name in a City
THE LEGEND LIVES: JNL BARBECUE
Building barbecue pits out of riverbed stones with his family gave Pitmaster Ben Lambert a natural edge to break into the game with his trailer, JNL Barbecue.
“JNL, that’s James Nolan Lambert. We named the place after my dad,” Ben, co-owner and pitmaster, proudly reminisces. ”People would drive from San Antonio to get a plate of my dad’s food.” Ben’s father passed when he was only 16. At the time, according to Ben, there was still so much more to learn about barbecue to make a career out of it. Eventually, he found himself in charge of brisket at Franklin Barbecue. While plenty of names have come out of the iconic spot off East 11th, Ben wanted to stand out from the pack of protégés.
Taking all he learned, Ben shifted focus eastward to learn from the greats in the Carolinas and bridge the gap between two pillars of American barbecue. “I learned how to cook a whole hog from Rodney Scott (widely considered one of the best pitmasters in the nation) and Michael Letchworth (another legend),” Ben grins. More locally, he spent a few weeks studying with the team behind Bangers to get a grip on how to do sausage well.
The Rising Stars Continue to Shine…
Mums Foods
Taking inspiration from the East Coast, Mums Foods off Manor Road is steadily proving that fusing Jewish and Texan slow cooking can produce the best of both brisket worlds. Visit for some of the softest bites of barbecue, and stay for the matzo ball soup and creamed eggs.
Local Tip: Try Mums Foods’s Pastrami or Smoked Chicken Salad sandwiches.
Distant Relatives
Damien Brockway’s modern African diaspora barbecue proves that looking back for inspiration can bring a cuisine forward. Their pulled pork sandwich with kohlrabi slaw, beef brisket with smoked mustard butter sauce, and chicken leg quarters with tamarind molasses barbecue sauce continues to seal Distant Relatives as a tour de force.
When Brisket Falls into the Menu
Brotherton’s Black Iron Barbecue’s Brisket Grilled Cheese: Monterey Jack and Provolone cheeses with butcher block chopped brisket on Texas Toast
Kemuri Tatsu-Ya’s Hot Pocketz: barbecue brisket, smoked gouda, tofu skin
Blue Lacy’s Texas Fries: chopped brisket, crispy pork belly, cotija cheese, red onion, scallion, chipotle ranch
Old Thousand’s Brisket Fried Rice: house-smoked brisket, egg, scallions
Stiles Switch BBQ’s Texas Frito Pie: beans, chopped beef, pickled jalapeños, cheddar cheese
Smokin Brew-B-Q’s Brisket Beans: beer-infused pinto beans with smoked prime brisket
Moreno’s Brisket Gouda Mac: pasta shells in a creamy smoked gouda and cheddar cheese sauce topped with tender Akaushi Wagyu brisket
La Barbecue’s Pickle Back Shot: Still Whiskey shot, La Barbecue pickle brine, a bite of brisket end as the chaser
KG BBQ’s Rice Bowl Brisket: Mediterranean rice, smoked brisket, garden salad, tahini, candied nuts, pomegranate seeds
Industry’s Brisket Pastrami: Dijon, house pickles, Swiss, bacon jam, Texas toast, brisket jus
The Newcomers: Brand Spanking New & Already Hot
LOCKHART HAS A NEW PALET, AND IT’S PINK. BARBS IS MOVING IN.
It would be easy to assume the stronghold for Texas barbecue would resist any change to the long-held gospel of smoking meat or that anyone who bucks tradition would be run out of town. For Chuck Charnichart, pitmaster of Barbs BQ and game changer, Lockhart couldn’t wait for Barbs to move in.
In Lockhart, the locals started advocating for Chuck’s dream, saying, ‘Oh, this is the perfect place for you.’ Chuck recalls, “They really put an initiative out there to bring Barbs to Lockhart.” That initiative even included established Lockhart names like Old Pal Bar, actively scouting locations on Barbs’ behalf. That kind of community support only reflects a fraction of Chuck’s budding talents for barbecue.
Tradition and innovation meld together in Tom’s Tex-Czech sausage. Adding a tangy zest of tangerine to a blend of lamb and beef, this billionaire-rich flavor profile explains the line of foodies waiting in the simmering summer sunshine for a bite. This playful approach to tradition has turned Tom’s trailer into a landmark all on its own.
Hot Newcomers Continue to Enter the Ring…
Smokin’ Brew-B-Q
Smokin’ Brew-B-Q is proof it isn’t wrong to combine the two for anyone who’s ever spilled some beer over smoked chicken. Cooking up barbecue served with their signature beer sauce, Smokin’ Brew-B-Q brings a boozier element to an already beer-friendly cuisine. Even the can comes into play by holding up their chicken to roast. This new-to-the-scene truck is cooking up lunch specials like a $10 Taco Trio on Tuesdays.
Local Tip: Try Smokin’ Brew-B-Q’s chopped slow-smoked tender Brisket Tacos layered with pickled onions, pickled jalapeños, avocado crema, and their signature brew-B-Q sauce.
When Sides Are the Stars
Ever wonder who has the best sides? We’ve got the scoop.
Dai Due’s Beef Fat French Fries: fries with beet ketchup and chile mayonnaise
Micklethwait Craft Meats’ Jalapeño Cheese Grits
Distant Relatives’ Smoke Roasted Peanuts
Barb’s BQ’s Green Spaghett: noodles in a sauce of cream cheese, sour cream, cilantro, jalapeño, and roasted poblano peppers
LeRoy and Lewis’ Kale Caesar Slaw: kale, cabbage, parmesan, homemade caesar dressing, mini croutons
Stiles Switch’s Sweet Serrano Fried Brussel Sprouts
Interstellar BBQ’s Smoked Scallop Potatoes: thinly sliced potatoes layered with cream, parmesan, and garlic, smoked to a golden brown
JNL Barbecue’s Chicheronnes Mac & Cheese
What’s Hot?
While Chuck’s culinary stardom rises, she advises foodies to look out for Nixta Taqueria alum, Luna Vela. Chuck says Luna’s approach to sushi is a game changer, mixing her knowledge of sushi and her South Texan background to deliver culinary creations that will be the next hot dishes to devour. With plans to do joint supper clubs, expect multiple courses blending Chuck’s approach to smoking meats and Luna’s approach to sushi—a new take on the classic surf and turf.
Mixin’ It Up: When Barbecue Makes Everything Else Taste Good
THE PIT ETERNAL: BROTHERTON’S BLACK IRON BARBECUE
After Brotherton’s Black Iron Barbecue lost legendary founder and pitmaster, John Brotherton, two young apprentices led the charge to continue a legacy of game-changing flavors he started.
Twenty-eight and twenty-five are hardly ages associated with barbecue pitmasters. This career covets a long history of smoking meats and prioritizes those who are well-seasoned over the years, but despite their ages, Bobby Holley and Dirseo Garay hit the grill running after being thrust into their new roles following John’s sudden passing in early 2024.
“It was a tremendous loss,” Bobby reflects. “John not only was the name and face of the business, but first and foremost, he was also a very clear-cut leader of the whole operation.”
Mixin’ It Up Never Tasted So Good
KG BBQ
If brisket in a grilled cheese sounds novel, prepare for a far-flung flavor journey in Egyptian-Texan fusion barbecue inside the KG BBQ trailer. Egyptian spices, bursts of pomegranate, and choices in cut meats like lamb bacon ribs refresh expectations for how far barbecue can travel.
Local Tip: Try their Pomegranate Glazed Pork Ribs.
Kerlaches
Another spot sliding brisket into unconventional meals is Kerlaches. Choose between brisket, sausage, or pulled pork with melted cheese stuffed into their kolaches for a bite of Texan barbecue in a beloved savory take on the Polish pastry.
Local Tip: Try Dai Due’s coffee-cured antelope leg filets slow-cooked over Texas Post Oak and topped with red wine-blackberry butter.
Fire & Ice: When Drinks are Smokin’
Bosses Office’s The Anthony Bourdain: Bulleit Bourbon, fig, sweet vermouth, and smoke
Milonga Room’s Chica de Humo: Mezcal, fresh lime, green Chartreuse, Creme de Cassis
Trona’s Durazno Collins: Hayman’s London Dry Gin rested with peach tea, European cucumbers, lemon juice topped with a smoky bubble
Essences’s Rattlesnake Sour: Buffalo Trace, Blackberry & Blanched Sage Reduction, lemon juice, egg white, topped with orange garnish
Milonga Room’s Caballero de Humo: Mezcal, lemon, Sfumato Amaro, Elderflower liqueur
Roosevelt Room’s Cigar Box: Del Maguey Vida Mezcal, smoked black tea syrup, RR lavender bitters, tobacco essence, served on an ashtray with a flamed cinnamon stick
