Unrestricted Indulgence {Li’l Nonna’s}

A Pizzeria with Grandma’s Stamp of Approval

Words Jessi Devenyns | Photos Baptiste Despois & Ashley Haguewood

Over the last seven years, the brick-red truck serving Li’l Nonna’s pizza has transformed from a vegan dining option into a cornerstone of Austin’s pizza scene, and for good reason.

A menu sporting familiar staples such as an ode to pepperoni and cheese, a prototypical Supreme option, and the perennial classic, Margherita, feature commonplace ingredients that anyone would recognize. It’s only after looking closely at these pizza components that it becomes apparent that Li’l Nonna’s provides something more than just good pizza.

“We’ve always made our own vegan cheese, all of our own vegan meats,” explains Li’l Nonna’s owner Robbie Lordi. The most notable of those vegan meats from Li’l Nonna’s, the beeteroni, isn’t even trying to imitate the animal-based equivalent. In fact, “We kind of always shied away from the fake meat thing,” Robbie explains.

Instead, the pizza toppings at this food tuck include creations like beets-cum-pepperoni, a smokey, bacony tempeh, and a vegan sausage made from wheat gluten. Despite the plant-based ingredients, Li’l Nonna’s goal is to create an indulgent pizza in every sense. “[Think] junk food made with whole foods,” Robbie says with a grin.

Not only does Robbie experiment and perfect many of the truck’s recipes himself, (his pizza pedigree includes VIA 313 where he helped to develop the restaurant’s gluten-free dough), but he is also a plant-based eater who recently removed wheat from his own diet. As a result, he is committed to thoughtfully pushing the boundaries of what a vegan pizza with gluten-free dough can taste like.

Regardless of dietary preferences, Robbie’s pie of choice is the Veg Out, which has a tomato base topped with organic baby spinach, shallots, and marinated artichokes underneath a generous helping of melted vegan mozzarella.

Although an all-veggie pie is a mouthwatering option, Li’l Nonna’s signature dish may be the Beeteroni ‘n Cheese pizza. Reminiscent of the childhood staple, this pizza showcases the perfectly spiced root vegetable alongside the pizza trailer’s homemade vegan mozzarella which is also a must-try itself. The Beeteroni, however, is a simple pleasure transformed into an indulgence. And it’s extremely popular.
“A lot of people say it tastes just like pepperoni because it pretty much is. I mean, when you’re eating a pepperoni, a lot of the flavoring is from the paprika, the spices, the smokiness…It actually has a pretty similar chewy texture to a pepperoni,” he says. “I’m not even the biggest guy on beets, but I like the beets when we prepare them like pepperoni.”

It’s not just vegans who claim that these beets are analogous to pepperoni. The last time Robbie polled his customers, less than half were vegan and at least 30% were omnivores.

That mix of patrons is a testament to the appeal of Li’l Nonna’s recipes, which have remained a long-time staple in the city’s bustling restaurant scene. And with its continuing commitment to quality dishes for all dietary requirements, this vegan pizzeria is sure to continue to tantalize tastebuds, making it easy to feed everyone in one place.

Where’s This?
Li’l Nonna’s is no longer parked beside Ani’s Day & Night. The pies can now be enjoyed alongside tasty beverages from Tweeney’s Famous Patio & Bar.

Did You Know?
Li’l Nonna’s has a sister restaurant called Big Nonna’s where there is an expanded menu that includes starters and sides as well as desserts, such as vegan soft serve from Sweet Ritual.

Contact
(512) 993-8998
Li’l: 2908 Fruth St.
Big: 12601 Tech Ridge Blvd., #300
lilnonnas.com