We Found the Best Tacos

Millions of Tacos, One Clear Choice.

Words by Jessi Devenyns Photos by Britt Short

Come 7 a.m., a lively blue door begins swinging on its hinges, welcoming early risers, long-time staff, and the early morning noises of the East Cesar Chavez neighborhood into the cozy confines of Juan in a Million. 

While many are still washing away sleep over a ceramic mug of coffee, the founders’ son, Juan Meza Jr., is already bustling about warmly welcoming patrons with a running dialogue that drifts from English to Spanish, only pausing for the span of a sincere handshake.  

The vintage booths, photo collages, and Saltillo-tiled planters that outfit this cozy dining room are the backdrop against which the same family recipes have been served for the last 41 years and where the Meza family has made a home for community. Opening in 1980 by two AISD school teachers who were armed with a loan and a desire to serve the parents of the children they taught, Juan in a Million quickly became an eatery that reached beyond the borders of the neighborhood. 

From college students to the Food Network, the line of hungry patrons is as varied as it is long. “It is also changing,” says Christina Kim, the founders’ daughter. Nevertheless, “they keep coming in and giving back to us, and they’ve been keeping us in business. We couldn’t be more grateful for the community around us.” Much of this consistency in patronage is thanks to the consistency of the kitchen staff, who Christina says have “maintained the same recipes from scratch. We don’t take any shortcuts.” 

Many come seeking the Don Juan taco whose oversized portions made a name for this Eastside eatery. However, this dish is not necessarily what the Meza family themselves order. “Well, I have various things that I order. I mean look at me, I don’t stop at one dish, and that’s my problem—I love all types of foods,” Juan Jr. laughs. However, he does have strict standards when it comes to their quality of food. It is almost with reverence that he describes his love of Angus beef; “homemade” and “fresh” are two adjectives that he uses with emphasis when cataloguing the restaurant’s dishes.

Three to four times a week, deliveries of fresh beef and produce are sent to Juan in a Million where it is then transformed into warm plates of fajitas or the patented Con Queso Breakfast. The dependable mouthwatering quality of these dishes is thanks to a no freezing policy. But even though fresh is a critical ingredient at the restaurant, Juan Jr. smiles, “our refrigerator is small on purpose.” The line that is already forming out the door early on a Thursday morning is a testament to the speed at which these ingredients are consumed. 

Over four decades, the recipes and décor of Juan in a Million have become a fixture in the community. At the heart of this is not only a plate full of nostalgic breakfast dishes, but also a family whose generations have built and run a restaurant where the goal is to do more than just eat. It is to create a home and a refuge amid a city that is ever-evolving. 

Contact:
(512) 472-3872
2300 E Cesar Chavez St.
juaninamillion.com
@juaninamillionrestaurant