Sassy’s Vegetarian Soul Food {Best Comfort Food in Austin}

It tastes like home

Much like anyone would expect from a soul food establishment, wisps of smoky paprika and sweetly tinged caramel drift out of the open window of Sassy’s Vegetarian Soul Food truck. However, unlike traditional restaurants, everything on Andrea Dawson’s menu is plant-based. Chicken and waffles, greens, black-eyed peas, hot water cornbread, and fried cabbage announce their presence on the truck’s menu board, and a line of customers snaking around the gravel patio is a testament to the tastes that are only hinted at by the smells wafting through the air.

Though a destination today, originally convincing the average passerby that vegetarian soul food was even a viable concept was not an easy feat. Doing so required a dash of nostalgia and a drop of liquid smoke. “If you didn’t have meat for dinner, this is what you had,” explains Andrea indicating her savory greens and creamy black-eyed peas. “I mean, this is the stuff that grandma always made.” She smiles and admits that grandma probably didn’t employ liquid smoke and instead used bacon rashers, but “it’s close enough, and it’s still good.”

Sassy’s menu relies heavily on dishes that originated from vegetables. One of her signatures is something that Andrea conceptualized herself: Chicon N Waffles. This crispy chicken analogue consists of house-made seitan and sits atop an eggless waffle before it is drizzled with a pumpkin spice coconut syrup. The sweetness of the syrup is balanced against a kick of spice before the entire chorus of flavor decrescendos against the savory seitan. To keep things interesting, the seitan comes in hot pepper lemon, orange, and jerk seasoning flavors. According to Andrea, everything is made by her in order to achieve the consistency and texture that she remembers from her past. One of her favorites is the fried cabbage, which was a childhood treat. She also gives a runner-up nod to her “Creamy Blackeye Peas,” which are made with a sweet and savory medley of spices that are reminiscent of the Far East.

The trick is balancing creativity with familiarity. That is what she suggests makes a plate of Southern comfort so indispensable. She says fondly, “It tastes like home.”

1403 E 7th Street | (214) 703-6617
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