Best Comfort Food in Austin
Where a Little Heart and Soul Meet in the Middle
Words by Jessi Devenyns Photos by Shelby Bella, Eric Morales, & Ashley Haguewood
It is uncanny how the smell of a childhood dish or the sound of a sizzling fryer can serve up comfort, carefree memories and a sense of belonging. Perhaps the secret lies in the familiarity of the recipes and the assurance that, regardless of how far life travels, fried fish will remain best paired with a po-boy bun, collard greens still have a way of making vegetables an indulgence, and migas will always be a foolproof way to improve any morning.
Across East Austin, clouds of comforting scents billow out of kitchens, carrying memories and telling stories of history, culture, and home to diners anticipating that good, ol’ classic cuisine. So pull up a chair, sit down, and dig into some delicious Southern dishes.
Country Boyz Fixins
Those who are looking to get their fix of good, homemade comfort should look no further than Country Boyz where the fried okra is crisp, the last spoonful of gumbo is liable to foster a fight, and the specials keep customers coming back for more. This institution has long been a destination when a craving for chicken and dumplings, alligator, chitterlings or smothered pork chops arises. Scratch made and served up steaming, a trip to Country Boyz is the fastest way to savor those southern roots.
4140 E 12th St | (512) 928-5555
The Best: Old Fashion
Rosewood
When it comes to comforting cocktails, an Old Fashioned is one of the most distinguished choices. Though originally a Kentucky liquor, Texas has its fair share of stately whiskeys to choose from, and few bars know how to honor that Texas craft liquor better than Rosewood where an old fashioned cocktail is made just the way it should be: bold and smooth.
The Best: Pimento Cheese
At Colleen’s, guests have the option to savor the cheesy pimento goodness on a country biscuit layered with pickled onions and ranch, grilled on a sweet sourdough, or served up with home-made potato chips and a sweet tomato jam.
Terry’s Seafood & Chicken
The light blue building on the edge of Airport Blvd has been a fixture in the community since the middle of the 20th century, and for over 50 years, Terry’s has continued to supply the neighborhood with fresh hot chicken sandwiches and flash fried oysters. Waiting for the arrival of a steaming plate of juicy butterfly shrimp and corn nuggets is an exercise in anticipation. The phone rings continuously and a steady stream of customers pass by to collect their orders and supply themselves with ample tartar sauce and vinegar-based hot sauce to flavor the already well-seasoned dishes coming out of the fryer. Don’t be surprised if your weekly to-go order ends up with a few extras after tasting the savory goodness of the catfish and stuffed crab.
1805 Airport Blvd. | (512) 477-3237
The Best:Fried Chicken
Terry’s Seafood & Chicken
knows how to marinate the chicken with just the right amount of spice to ensure it’s crispy on the outside and juicy on the inside.
Roland’s Soul Food & Fish
For years, Roland’s Soul Food was recognizable by its orange exterior. While the façade has been freshened with a blue coat of paint, the food they serve up is still hearty. The oxtail is a favorite and is best when served on top of rice to sop up the extra sauce. The dish is only improved when accompanied by cornbread, mac and cheese, and some mixed greens. It can be tempting to take an order to-go because Roland’s serves everything in a container. However, it is wise to stay for dessert, for the peach cobbler is sure to be reminiscent of the good ol’ days.
1311 Chestnut Ave. | (512) 499-8833
The Best: Hushpuppies
Austin Daily Press
Known as hushpuppies to most, at ADP these bite-sized nuggets of fried corn are called J-pups due to the jump started version of a classic that they serve with an infusion of jalapeños and a side of spicy ranch for dipping. It’s a little bit of Texas rolled up in a bite from the South.
{Read more about ADP here}
The Best:Grits
Micklethwait Craft Meats
With so many creations based on corn, grits may be one of the most unique contributions from southerners. Grit lovers and novices alike will not be disappointed with a serving of jalapeño cheese grits from Micklethwait’s. Cheesy, grainy, and packaged with a tiny kick of spice, there’s nothing
not to love.
{More about Micklethwait here}
Sawyer & Co.
Stephen Shallcross designed Sawyer & Co to recreate his memories of being a student at the University of Texas in the early 1990s and sitting down for blue plate specials at what was then known as Arkie’s Grill. “It literally felt like walking into my living room at my house in Baton Rouge. So I kept going back not only because the food was good, but it was also a place where they made you feel at home,” Stephen recalls.
Thirty years later, Sawyer & Co remains dedicated to creating a living room-like atmosphere that serves up plates of comfort and cultivates conversation. “Comfort food is the hospitality of food. It’s the food that makes you feel a certain way. And when you feel nostalgic and loved, cherished and cared for, and welcomed and special, it’s something that triggers a memory of eating, [and] that is what’s so fun to me about it,” he smiles.
{Full story on Sawyer & Co.}
The Best:
Iced Tea
Flyrite Chicken & Contigo
Summertime demands a sip of that iconic Southern beverage to cool off. Whether it’s a classic sweet tea from Flyrite or a jazzed up Arnold Palmer made with sparkling honey basil lemonade from Contigo, it will be hard to be anything but refreshed.
{More about Flyrite or Contigo}
The Best:
Fried Fish
Mr. Catfish
Their 3-plate special comes with fried catfish that is cooked to perfection: a crisp cornmeal coating and a flaky inside. Add their peppery mac and cheese and fried okra, and you’ll feel you just arrived at grandpa’s house. This long-time Eastside establishment has a live blues night, too.
The Best:
Deviled Eggs
Salty Sow
Crafted carefully with their home-made aioli and served with crispy bacon bits, these southern favorites pair well with Salty Sow’s famous crispy brussel sprout leaves or chicken liver mousse starters.
{More about Salty Sow here}
3 Best: Mac & Cheese
Hillside Farmacy (pictured), Terry Black’s Barbecue, & Rollin Smoke BBQ
There are as many recipes for macaroni and cheese as there are families in the South. From Hillside Farmacy’s signature blend of Taleggio, aged white cheddar, and bread crumbs, which should always include the broccoli, to Terry Black’s Barbecue’s traditional cheesy rendition that tastes of childhood Friday nights, the best choice of mac will always remain a point of contention. While there may be no right answer, another mention goes to Rollin Smoke BBQ where the shell noodles are infused with woodsmoke for a barbecue-tinged masterpiece.
{More about Rollin Smoke}
The Rolling Rooster
A new addition to East 11th Street, The Rolling Rooster boasts a menu that aims to touch one’s soul. Inspired by recipes handed down from generations, the restaurant specializes in chicken & waffles, a dish that is cooked with care to ensure that distinctive crunch for both the meat and its doughy bed. The catfish is also a worthy dish with cornmeal breading and a vinegar-based hot sauce that pairs well with fried jalapeño bombers. In a nod to its roots, the restaurant is located where the historic Victory Grill blues club used to stand, and the restaurant owners maintain the stage for blues and R&B musical performances. When visiting in person, this local diner is sure to appeal to all the senses.
1104 E 11th Street
therollingrooster.com
Read more about Rolling Rooster at Victory Grill
Hoover’s Cooking
For over 20 years, Hoover Alexander has cultivated a neighborhood watering hole with Southern-style comfort food. While all the classics like chicken fried steak and catfish are on the menu, Hoover’s shines for its dessert menu which features scratch made pies, banana pudding, and cobbler. Each slice of sweetness is an excuse to call a friend and organize an afternoon chat over a shared indulgence. But who’s to say indulgence is limited to sweets? The Beet-o-Ritas at Hoover’s are a cheerful pink slurry that asks guests to sip back and relax into good flavors and
good company.
2002 Manor Rd. | (512) 479-5006
hooverscooking.com
Hoover’s beet-o-rita, read more!
The Best: Meatloaf
Hoover’s
What could be more representative of home cooking than meatloaf? This iconic dish has as many interpretations as there are grandmothers’ kitchens, but Hoover’s has taken all those components of comfort and baked them into a casserole dish smothered with tangy tomatoes
for the ultimate balance of
comforting flavor.
The Best: Chicken Fried Steak
Jacoby’s Restaurant & Mercantile
It wouldn’t be Texas if chicken fried steak did not appear on the menu. Although no chickens are harmed in the making of this dish – the chicken part of the name only refers to the breading that protects the sirloin from contact with the elements – somehow the naming convention stuck, and Jacoby’s uses this unmistakable name to its best advantage. The restaurant uses meat directly from the family ranch that has been dry aged before it arrives on the plate smeared with black pepper gravy.
{More about Jacoby’s}
The Best: Seafood
Krab Kingz
Tender crab meat, corn-on-the-cob, potatoes, and jumbo shrimp are layered with Cajun spices and buttery-decadence. These melt-in-your-mouth dishes are what patrons have come to expect from Krab Kingz.
Cherrywood Coffeehouse
Though the concept for this neighborhood eatery was born in Texas, its chef calls Louisiana home, and the result is a smorgasbord of options that include breakfast tacos and huevos rancheros alongside some of the best shrimp and grits and biscuits and gravy in the county. With ceramic cups and plastic plates, the diner food is unfailingly delicious as it is unpretentious. The shrimp and grits is delicately sautéed in white wine before cozying up to some sautéed bacon, onions, tomatoes, with creamy grits. It also comes with eggs for an extra layer of decadence. Those who bring the family for the food end up becoming regulars because of the community that is created here.
1400 E 38th 1/2 St. | (512) 538-1991
cherrywoodcoffeehouse.com
Read more about Cherrywood Coffeehouse or their Chocolate City Smoothie
The Best: Grilled Cheese
Emoji Grilled Cheese
From their Buffalo Chicken to their Bacon Cheddar, every grilled cheese sandwich at Emoji is served with a smile. No pun intended. These folks are known for their customer service
and classic childhood favorites.
The Best: Biscuits
Bird Bird Biscuit
Crunchy on the outside and fluffy on the inside, these biscuits are served up with cranberry-apple jam and are finger-linking good.
Sassy’s Vegetarian Soul Food
Much like anyone would expect from a soul food establishment, wisps of smoky paprika and sweetly tinged caramel drift out of the open window of Sassy’s Vegetarian Soul Food truck. However, unlike traditional restaurants, everything on Andrea Dawson’s menu is plant-based. Chicken and waffles, greens, black-eyed peas, hot water cornbread, and fried cabbage announce their presence on the truck’s menu board, and a line of customers snaking around the gravel patio is a testament to the tastes that are only hinted at by the smells wafting through the air.
Though a destination today, originally convincing the average passerby that vegetarian soul food was even a viable concept was not an easy feat. Doing so required a dash of nostalgia and a drop of liquid smoke. “If you didn’t have meat for dinner, this is what you had,” explains Andrea indicating her savory greens and creamy black-eyed peas. “I mean, this is the stuff that grandma always made.” She smiles and admits that grandma probably didn’t employ liquid smoke and instead used bacon rashers, but “it’s close enough, and it’s still good.”
{Full story on Sassy’s}
The Best: Fried Okra
Rosewood
Once again, Rosewood earns a mention for its okra, which is farm fresh and lovingly tossed in chickpea tempura that imparts an airy crunch to contrast with the sticky okra spears. To keep things spicy, these summertime staples are served up with a jalapeño yogurt and chimichurri sauce that provide maximum flavor explosion when
swirled together.
The Best:
Kolaches
Teal House Coffee & Bakery
Kolaches are those wonderful pockets of sweet air filled with seasonal fruit that rose out of generations of Eastern European cuisine cooking in Texas kitchens. Although there are plenty of places to grab one of these sweet buns, Teal House Coffee and Bakery really knows how to balance the saccharine juices of fresh fruit with the yeasty pillows that are the
bedrock of a delicious kolache, or any sweet treat on their menu
for that matter.
The Best:
Migas
Joe’s Bakery
Those who have lived in Texas long enough and have needed a pick-me-up have likely discovered the virtues of a plate of migas. This Tex-Mex breakfast dish is a staple, but it really shines at Joe’s Bakery where the staff takes eggs, tortilla chips, onions, tomatoes, jalapeños, and cheese and transforms them into a breakfast that
brightens up any day.
The Best:
Menudo
El Mana Food Truck
While this unassuming trailer in a parking lot on East 38 1/2 Street serves up tacos, there is often a menudo special written up on the board that is absolutely worth ordering. While the hearty soup is most often associated with wintertime comfort, adding an extra dollop of spice to complement
the flavor-laden combination of tripe and
hominy suddenly makes the air
outside feel almost agreeable.
Sun Tea
Early in the morning, Grandma would carry a huge jar filled with cool water that cast off sparkling rainbows along wood paneling down the porch steps. She’d place it on the wobbliest wooden side table in the lumpiest spot on the grass, take a long inhale from her cigarette and drop nearly ten tea bags into the glistening water. It was placed in the same spot as last time, and the time before that, guaranteeing maximum sun exposure. The jar would marinate there for hours, just sunbathing in all the glory. All day, I would play under the shade of her magnolia tree and work up a thirst by eating raw tomatoes, straight out of Grandpa’s garden, smothered in barely edible amounts of salt. But I’d have to wait. As the sky turned into a purple haze, the tea was done. She’d pick up the glass jar and bring it to the fridge to cool overnight, because even though Grandma smoked like a chimney, there’s a rule to always be followed: never serve a child tea right before bedtime. The next morning we’d have a glass at lunch with Wonder bread sandwiches and soak in all its refreshing goodness.
Amanda Darby is the founder and owner of East Austin Culinary Studio. Her passion for cooking stems from the joy and memories that cooking evokes. She opened East Austin Culinary Studio to share with the community that cooking does not have to be hard nor perfect. Good food, regardless of its simplicity, has the power to bring people together and create lasting memories.
{Read more}
Yields: 32 oz. brewed tea
Ingredients:
1 glass quart jar with lid
(no plastic)
6 black, Assam, Oolong tea
bags (Lipton recommended)
1 lemon or orange, sliced
Directions: Fill the jar to the top with 1 inch of room from the lid (head space). Add tea bags and set the jar in direct sun. After 6 hours, take inside to chill overnight. Serve over ice and, if preferred, add a slice of lemon or orange. The refreshing drink can be enjoyed immediately at the end of the day, but caffeine sensitive souls might possibly be up all night.