The Best Barbecue in the East
Smoked meat purveyors are adapting and are continuing to deliver good food to good people.
Words by Jessi Devenyns Photos by Shelby Bella, Eric Morales, & Ashley Haguewood
East Austin holds its own as an independent barbecue mecca. Home to heavyweights like Franklin Barbecue and Micklethwait Craft Meats, this side of town has carved out a name for itself among barbecue lovers. However, it is in tandem with the Eastside’s lesser-known locales that a community of rib royalty and brisket barons has been built. In recent months, as these restaurants look to keep their doors open, this connection to community and local patrons has become even more vital to the barbecue ecosystem. From to-go orders to digitizing operations, barbecue has had to adapt to a changing landscape while still providing a slice of comfort.
Franklin Barbecue
Even with international fame attached to its name, Franklin Barbecue has suddenly become a local restaurant serving Central Texans and, especially, Eastsiders. “At least half of our usual [customer] base is probably people from outside of Texas who are just traveling,” says co-founder Aaron Franklin. “But now, I think it’s pretty much Central Texans.”
And those Texans who are showing up to Franklin’s nowadays are not the barbecue road trippers looking to wait away a day in a line snaking around the parking lot. Instead, Aaron remarks that the majority of those swinging by to pick up barbecue are curious customers rather than die-hard barbecue fans. “Now that Franklin Barbecue is available to everybody, you don’t have to wait in line. That filter is kind of gone, so now we get a lot more people who might not have the same barbecue background or the nerdy aspect,” he explains.
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Donn’s BBQ
Just east of town is an under-the-radar stalwart staple, that continuously has a line from the entrance into the parking lot. Since 1986, Donn’s has been serving up Texas-style brisket and family-style combo plates alongside menudo and Tex-Mex breakfast tacos. While the brisket tacos might be the most iconic illustration of this blending of cuisines, the mouthwatering meat at Donn’s is what keeps folks coming back for more.
Today Jose Guerrero runs the show, but he credits his prestige at the pits to James Milton Howell who not only passed on the knowledge of barbecue but also integrated the restaurant into the community where it expanded into three locations around town.
At Donn’s, food is fused with community, and the establishment has been able to continue its operations—albeit at a distance—throughout this trying time. In fact, Donn’s continues to operate at full capacity and has managed to retain their 40+ employees while still serving up smoked meats to those who crave their home-style comfort food.
(512) 928-0229 | donns-bbq.com | 10003 FM 969
Micklethwait Craft Meats
At Micklethwait’s, everything and nothing is new since the onset of the coronavirus. Tom Micklethwait shares that following the effective closure of the tourism industry and the halt of local festivals, business has reverted to a level that he hasn’t seen since he opened in 2012. “It’s like building from the ground up again,” he says.
Although creating a business from scratch is something that Tom has already accomplished, this time he shares that he is receiving input from his neighbors. As the majority of the barbecue trailer’s business has historically been from out of town guests, Tom explains that he has had to reconsider the operations of his restaurant and has been slowly adjusting to catering to a hyper-local crowd. Now, he remarks that half of his business is from the immediately surrounding neighborhoods of East Austin. As a result of the needs in the neighborhood, he says that the barbecue trailer began offering family meal packs that allow four to six people to indulge in a Texas favorite from the comfort of their own table.
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Black’s Barbecue
The Original
Those who dream of delicious mouth-watering meat make a pitstop at Black’s Barbecue. With over 30,000 days of experience serving up meats smoked low and slow, this barbecue mecca has perfected the triad of a simple rub, post oak wood smoke, and patience. This third-generation barbecue restaurant has climbed onto “best of” ranking lists across the nation, but it is the ties that the family maintains to its Central Texas home that keeps the flavor alive. Black’s has continued to supply hungry patrons with barbecue, offering curbside pickup and carry out orders on their new online ordering system. They have even added the option of 6-packs of beer for $12 so that barbecue lovers don’t go thirsty.
Since May 5, both the Austin and the Lockhart locations have reopened and are operating at a 25% capacity. So for those who need to get out, stretch their legs, and enjoy some fresh barbecue, Black’s is the original destination.
215 N Main St. in Lockhart | 3110 Guadalupe St. in Austin | (512) 398-2712 | blacksbbq.com/lockhart
J. Leonardi’s
The barbecue offered at J. Leonardi’s is made with recipes handed down through the generations. Passed from uncle to nephew under the watchful eye of the family matriarch, Jerome Leonardi, owner of the barbecue trailer, learned his craft in a trial by fire. The result, however, is a slow-smoked, succulent menu of meats that can hold its own against any of East Austin’s barbecue giants.
This understated trailer is a gem and not just for the barbecue that Jerome smokes. In true community style, the barbecue trailer has been donating free lunches to local kids who need their bellies fed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays and proceeding with regular operations Thursday through Saturday. This blue plate special for kids rotates daily and is offered on a first-come, first-serve basis.
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Local Meat Markets
Dai Due Butcher Shop & Supper Club
Lovers of game meat rejoice. This old-school butcher shop may not sell already-prepared barbecue staples, but it does offer cuts for those looking to introduce a twist to the mundane grill nights. Select from goat, lamb, quail, free-roaming venison, or feral hog. Whatever the choice, customers can be assured that the meat is sourced directly from conscientious Texas farmers.
2406 Manor Rd. | (512) 524-0688 | daidue.com
Longhorn Meat Market
Longhorn Meat Market is a one-stop shop for the essentials like beef, short ribs, and tomahawk steaks. There are also whole suckling roasting pigs and rabbit. Whatever the order, don’t forget some of the all-purpose barbecue rub that is custom blended in-house. Coffee and eggs can also be added to the short list.
2411 E Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd. | (512) 476-5223 | longhornmeatmarket.com
Salt & Time
Meat cuts at Salt & Time may be hand processed by on-site butchers, but steaks and pork loins are not the only reason one visits this shop. The salumeria is where this local butcher stands out. With its handmade terrines and dry cured meats, their tantalizing selection that is so vast may make it difficult to know where to start. Good thing they give samples.
1912 E 7th St. | (512) 524-1383 | saltandtime.com
Eastside Poultry
Since 1913, Eastside Poultry has been serving Austin with fresh poultry and eggs. While the company serves many restaurants and commercial foodservice facilities around town, it also welcomes individuals Monday through Thursday from 7am to 3pm and Friday until 4pm. Naturally, an array of chicken cuts are offered, but for those who want a little more variety, duck, turkey, quail, and eggs are also available.
2615 E 6th St. | (512) 476-5367 | eastpoultry.com
la Barbecue
Hot & spicy
Prior to Austin slowing down, East Austin’s la Barbecue had become more of an international attraction rather than a local watering hole. Co-owner LeAnn says, “[Now], we’re really relying on local support.” Thankfully, many Austinites are showing up. LeAnn shares, “There were a lot of local people who just straight up didn’t want to wait in line but are now coming to eat our food because it’s easy.”
To make grabbing their spicy barbecue even easier, la Barbecue implemented an online ordering system that allows hungry customers to pick up their orders—no waiting required. In addition, the menu has changed slightly, with beef ribs no longer being served.
But even amid change, some things have remained. Cheese has long been a trusty side at la Barbecue for its consistency and its ability to impeccably pair with barbecue. “It’s a bit like enjoying a classic, but elevated, meat and cheese sandwich,” explains LeAnn. At la Barbecue, not just any cheese is served with smoked meat. The key is Longhorn cheddar with its mild flavor. Pairing cheese with meat elicits nostalgia just as much as it offers comfort to diners. LeAnn shares that cheese is also for those who don’t eat meat and still want to enjoy the array of sides that accompany any good barbecue platter.
2027 E Cesar Chavez St. | (512) 605-9696 | labarbecue.com
Mum Foods
With a commitment to creative, locally-sourced side dishes to complement meticulously smoked meats, Geoffrey Ellis, the owner of Mum Foods, is no stranger to adaptation. “It’s just us using the assets that we have,” he explains. In any given year, Mum Foods will cycle through 50 different sorts of pickles to be served alongside fatty slices of brisket and rich slabs of pastrami. Whether it is traditional cucumbers, green tomatoes, carrots, or kimchi, Geoffrey shares that whatever is in season can make a perfect pickle.“It’s a flavor profile that obviously pairs really well with barbecue.” The same, he says, is true for mustard. “For me, rich, fatty meats go better with a sharp, piquant sauce like mustard.”
Regardless, of style—stoneground, honey-based, or spicy mustard—they all can be slathered on a bun to the layered flavor profiles of sausage, brisket, and pastrami.
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Southside Market & Barbeque
Since 1882
Venturing to Elgin’s Southside Market and Barbeque—the oldest continuously operating barbecue joint in America—is a must. Since 1882, Southside Market has been serving Texans from Elgin to Austin with smoked meats and Texas tea.
Although staples like brisket, smoked turkey, and pork are on the menu, their sausage options are renowned. The market serves up an array of recipes in long ropes of twisted links, including beef and hot beef as well as jalapeño cheese and garlic sausage. Their sausage slammers are also decadent creations that are built around a fresh jalapeño filled with cheddar and then wrapped in pork sausage which is then rolled up in bacon.
While one could order by the link, it will be hard to resist ordering by the pound. The sausage here is a legend that reaches back to the establishment’s beginnings and remains unchanged.
If it’s been popular for 138 years, they’re clearly doing something right. While drive-thru and curbside delivery are available, the restaurant’s Elgin location is also open for dine-in.
1212 US-290, in Elgin | (512) 281-4650 | southsidemarket.com
Rollin Smoke BBQ
Rollin Smoke is East Austin’s David to the barbecue Goliaths that dominate the ‘cue scene. Although small in stature, this meat is not short in flavor. With a barbecue smoker named Crystal Gayle that takes up nearly the entire real estate of their trailer, there is little doubt that Rollin Smoke’s owner Kyle Stallings is serious about his smoked meats. Known for pulled pork and handmade jalapeño cheddar pork sausage, the joint’s Friday pork rib special and Saturday night dinosaur-sized beef ribs are also worth the visit.
Do not, however, expect traditional Texas barbecue here. Rollin Smoke melds regional styles and flavors into their sandwiches and tacos that are perfect for on-the-go sustenance. Classics like The Silky – a slow-cooked, pulled pork sandwich topped with spicy slaw – make an appearance alongside reinterpreted childhood favorites like Player’s Pie, which can be eaten one of two ways. The Frito pie can be served with traditional corn chips and topped with any of Rollin Smoke’s meats or those chips can be substituted with Cheetos for a cheesy rendition. The menu even accounts for vegetarians and offers smoked portobello mushrooms with a spicy slaw.
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More BBQ? Try these
Sam’s BBQ
Since 1957, this no-frills pit stop has been serving up hot barbecue plates. Known as a community landmark, this place has the ability to take patrons back to a simpler place in time with walls covered in memorabilia and diner style booths.
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(512) 478-0378 | 2000 E 12th St.
Scotty’s BBQ
Known for their savory pork, Scotty’s is a down-to-earth barbecue food truck serving up a wide range of smoked meats. Dine at the open-air picnic tables or order to-go.
(512) 350-1615 | austinscottysbbq.com | 2730 E Cesar Chavez St #4706
B Cooper Barbecue
From farmstand to food trailer, this noteworthy spot specializes in sides made from scratch and Texas-style barbecue. Smoked meats include everything from spare ribs to chicken and lamb cooked low and slow over an oak flame.
(512) 690-6220 | 705 Gunter St. | bcooperbarbecue.com
Taco Bronco
Although the name says taco, the man behind the meat here is none other than Tom Micklethwait. This barbecue masterpiece is where hungry patrons can grab tacos filled with crispy smoked pork carnitas or South Texas boar sausage to go with their beer. Taco Bronco also has family-style smoked meat plates along with meat by the pound ready to dish up.
(512) 571-2326 | tacobroncotx.com | 3220 Manor Rd.
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