From the Crowd Rush to the Hush, Hush
Go Beyond the Obvious
Words by Abby L. Johnson | Photos by Baptiste Despois
Austin is officially the 10th largest city in the U.S. and is well on its way to reaching a population of one million residents. While this boomtown may not be a hidden gem itself, there are plenty of best-kept secrets scattered across East Austin and beyond. For those willing to dig a little deeper and look past the headlines, the hospitality industry has no shortage of surprises in store. Inside the tiniest of speakeasies, a religious gas station culture, and at under-the-radar chef’s tables, both longtime residents and newcomers alike still have much more to explore.
Desert Beauty
From the peculiar name itself to the strange instructions patrons receive to find the bar entrance, Trona exerts an air of otherworldliness on guests from the get-go.
Tatanka Guerrero, owner and visionary, wanted to create something special for East Austin. “Trona was an idea that I had to curate and conceptualize a small boutique cocktail bar. I just felt that there was a void…[when] I wanted to go get a nice cocktail in a nice atmosphere, with great vibes and also hospitality…I feel like every single time I would have to go too far from where I live.”
When the shotgun bar that formerly housed 13th Floor (now located on Red River) became available, Tatanka saw the opportunity to challenge his design sensibility with the small scale of the building. He re-envisioned the layout, turning the street-facing door into a graffitied façade and transforming the alleyway into an otherworldly portal. The old entryway windows are now covered in spray painted scribbles that, when you look closely, spell out “anort”—which is Trona backwards. And when the sun shines just right, it casts a shadow of the name across the room.
Bringing Vegetables to Center-stage
Among fine dining establishments, Fabrik stands out for their fully plant-based menu and commitment to sustainability. The cozy space seats 16 guests and welcomes epicureans on a culinary adventure five nights a week. Each evening, Fabrik hosts two dinner seatings. The menu is always prix fixe, though guests can choose whether their dining experience consists of five or seven courses.
The Wallersteins opened their doors to the community in August 2023 and have been adopted as one of the most exciting new fine dining establishments in the city, a testament to the expertise and craft Chef Je consistently delivers to guests each day.
Contact:
fabrikatx.com
1701 E MLK Blvd., Ste. 102
@fabrikatx
Baby’s Got Back Located behind the Ramen Tatsu-ya location on East Sixth, Domo Alley-Gato is a tachinomiya-inspired patio bar. Tachinomiya is Japanese for “standing bar.” Tachinomiyas are laid-back, neighborhood-oriented spaces, and Domo Alley-Gato is just that. Plus, their playful cocktail menu is the perfect complement to the ramen served in the main establishment.
So High Whisler’s, the bustling East Sixth bar, also has a second bar dedicated to agave spirits. Go up to the second floor to find Mezcalería Tobalá, a Oaxcan-inspired concept. Inside School House Pub, a favorite family-owned East Austin bar, is a sky-high mezcal bar called Techo Mezcaleria & Agave Bar. Enter through the School House yard, look for the stairway, and begin the ascent to this hidden oasis.
Grab & Go or Stay A While
Perhaps because of its vast size, Texas has a long history of dining establishments that cater to travelers on the road. In the Lone Star State, gas station and convenience stores are commonly home to understated gourmet kitchens. From well-known spots like Rudy’s BBQ to under-the-radar taco stands, Austinites can find a great meal in the most unexpected places.
Amorcito Taqueria
While there is certainly no dearth of gas station tacos available in Austin’s city limits, Amorcito Taqueria offers a unique take on the experience. Located at a Chevron station, the inside is brightly lit and surprisingly welcoming. Beyond the aisles of typical convenience fare, there is a small dining area in front of a vibrant walk-up counter.
Lunch tacos range from $4 to $6 and never skimp on the fillings, making this an affordable meal no matter how many tacos it takes to satisfy a hungry customer. They also have offerings beyond tacos, including flautas and tlayudas. One surprising standout is the calabacitas taco. Zucchini and squash are seasoned to perfection to create a wholesome meal that doesn’t miss the meat.
amorcitoatx.com | 13107 FM 969, Ste. 100 & 3131 State Hwy. 71 #120
Mama’s Momos
Nepalese food is one of the more underrepresented cuisines in Austin’s diverse food scene. The understated flavors and traditional recipes of the small mountainous country deserves every bit of attention paid to the food of its south Asian neighbors.
Mama’s Momos, an under-the-radar spot located inside Cedar Convenience Store, celebrates and shares Nepali culture with Austinites. The small kitchen delivers a modest menu of classics like samosas, fried rice, chow mein, and of course, momos. As the name suggests, the momos, a type of steamed dumpling, are the star of the show. The texture of the outer dough is soft and chewy while the inside is bursting with flavor.
For the ultimate experience, order some momos to go, then head next door to Community Garden to enjoy a glass of wine and some fresh air while chowing down on a delightful bite-sized meal.
1401 Cedar Ave. | (512) 770-6141
Scratch | Restaurants
The folks behind this growing hospitality group are delivering a fresh perspective on fine dining in Austin. Both their Sushi by Scratch (an omakase concept) and their Pasta | Bar (a 12-course pasta tasting menu with specialty wine pairings) wow patrons with elaborate recipes and incredible hospitality as chefs take turns presenting their delicacies to a 10-seat counter. If diners have a hard time scoring a seat at these exclusive dinners, they can always indulge the senses at their lesser-known concept, Not a Damn Chance Burger—no rez required!
scratchrestaurants.com | Sushi by Scratch: 575 Hyatt Lost Pines Rd. | Pasta | Bar: 1017 E 6th St., NADC Burger: 1007 E 6th St.
Keeping it Classy-fied
Shangri-La has long been a staple dive bar on the Eastside. Since its establishment in 2008, it has attracted a wide range of locals and become somewhat of a catch-all place—a spot for beers, pool, and a mixed drink or two. It’s the kind of space that’s a perfect starting point for a night of bar crawling or for winding down an evening out in a chilled-out environment. But despite its laid-back, no-frills, straightforward appearance, this bar has a secret.
Observant patrons might notice people seemingly disappearing from the patio. It’s not a supernatural phenomenon making people vanish but a hidden cocktail bar that beckons the adventurous with a curious green light.
If the green light is on, patrons can press the intercom to gain access to The Treasury, the speakeasy owned and operated by Shangri-La. Once they make it past the door, they’ll have to descend a flight of stairs to make their way into the bank-themed cocktail bar.
#IYKYK
Best Late Night Hot Dog: Silver Medal
Fluffiest Donuts: SH Donuts
Tastiest Tenders: Terry’s Seafood
Best Cuban Torta: 7 Spirits
Around the World in 14 Plates
After dabbling in French- Asian fusion, Japanese, Italian, Belgian, and American cuisine, L.A.-based chef Saine Wong never expected he would return to Japanese cuisine, let alone open his own omakase restaurant in Austin, Texas.
“I always thought I would open a French bistro. But Covid got me into sushi again because…omakases were able to operate,” he explained, noting that omakases usually operate at a very small capacity. The Japanese term literally translates to “I’ll leave it up to you,” and the experience is usually an intimate, curated experience where guests can connect with the chef over a prix fixe menu.
Despite their smaller size, omakases in L.A. were eventually subject to Covid restrictions as well, and that’s when Saine made the move to Austin and helped start Sushi | Bar. After a three-month stint with them, he decided to open his own joint with business partner C.K. Chin. The idea for Toshokan was born in May 2021 and quickly came to fruition in February 2022.
Wondrous Windows
Sammataro
New York-style pies from a food truck may sound dubious, but they have some of
the best ‘za in town.
Poke Poke
This casual build-your-own poke concept has patrons dreaming about a permanent move to the Big Island.
Rock Star Bagels
Perhaps the best bagels in all of Austin, RockStar Bagels strikes that elusive balance between dense and chewy while topping off their carb-loaded delights with both typical deli fare and Texas takes on the New York classics.
Zed’s
This walk-up New Zealand-style ice cream spot makes creamy, blended ice cream with fresh fruit of your choice.
Taco Mex
They’ve been serving up some of the best Tex-Mex breakfast tacos to the ‘hood for over a decade now. Breakfast, lunch, or dinner, this window always has a line of locals out front.
Bottega
Off the beaten path—in Mueller—is a new Bodega-style eatery serving up specialties like S’mores Latte, Affogato (espresso poured over ice cream), and Whiskey Herbed Pâtés.
El Pollo Rico
Originating on the Eastside, this roasted chicken stand brings so much more than slow cooked meats. Feeding the fam here is no problem, and their popularity is evident by their growth, now having stands across Austin to Manor.
Get Lost {in Paradise}
Eden Cocktail Room is, perhaps, truly the most hidden bar in Austin. Until one knows about Eden, there would be almost no reason to walk down the alley between Brazos Street and San Jacinto Boulevard. For those in the know, there’s a red light shining above a purple door at the end of this dark tunnel that transports visitors from the hectic energy of the Sixth Street crowd to a sinfully peaceful place.
Eden Cocktail Room’s aesthetic plays with the seductive themes of temptation and indulgence. The name itself is a nod to a perfect paradise, but the neon sign next to the bar glowing with the phrase “We’re Only Human” hints at an enticing fall from grace.
Owner and bartender Chris Crow set out to design a place that not only highlighted the craft he has been perfecting since age 18 but also stamped an unforgettable adventure into the minds of its visitors.
It’s all uphill once you make it through the alleyway. “You open up the purple doors, you start to smell palo santo, and you’re like, okay, maybe we’re in the right spot,” says Chris. “The first thing you see [inside] is the marble bar top with our mural, which is a homage to Eve and Lilith.” The vibrant painting features a UV light component. When it’s dark enough, “Eden” appears in neon letters at the top of the mural—another hidden delight.
Milonga Room
Buenos Aires Café is a beloved Argentinian restaurant known primarily for their homemade empanadas and South American wine. But tucked beneath the laidback bistro is Milonga Room, a reservation-based cocktail bar dedicated to celebrating Amari. The secret space has its own tapas and dessert menu with offerings like a picada and asado plate and quatro leches cake. They have a slew of house-made cocktails, but they keep that menu discreet. You’ll have to visit the speakeasy yourself to get a taste of their unique herbal liqueur concoctions.
1201 E 6th St.
milongaroom.com
@milonga_room
Culture Following
In East Austin
Pollos Asados El Norteño
6401 FM 969, #400
El Xolo Tacos
1901 E MLK Jr. Blvd.
Abo Youssef
2101 Manor Rd.
Beyond East Austin
Giovanni’s Pizza Stand
2900 S Lamar Blvd.
Teal House Coffee & Bakery
2304 S Congress Ave.
Wee’s Cozy Kitchen
609 Congress Ave.
Beirut
3225 Amy Donovan Plz.
Destination Worthy
Store House Market & Eatery
813 Main Street
Bastrop, Texas
Chef Point Bar & Restaurant
5220 State Hwy. 121
Colleyville, Texas
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This is hands down one of the best articles I’ve come across in a while.