Harmonizing History & Culture

East 11th Street beats out famous streets across the world to become a top destination without paving over its roots.

Words Janine Stankus 

What better marker of a place worth visiting than a distinguished gateway arch—like that which marks the start of East 11th Street? With its brick balustrades, cherry iron arch, and blazing Lone Star, it welcomes visitors to a stretch of East Austin that has been dubbed “third coolest street in the world” by Time Out magazine.

The arch, erected in the early 2000s, is also a symbol of change. The neighborhood was subject to legal segregation from 1928 to the mid ’50s, with I-35 as the clear dividing line. Despite restrictions, Black businesses thrived during that time, and echoes of that era still survive along East 11th. In 1945, Victory Grill opened as a social club for Black soldiers returning from war.  Flourishing as a famous blues joint for almost 80 years, it still operates today. The now-restaurant, Hillside Farmacy, pays homage to the Hillside Drug Store which opened in 1950 by local Ulysses “Doc” Young—one of the first Black pharmacists in Austin. 

But for the most part, the monuments of East 11th’s early heyday were swallowed in the wake of desegregation. It wasn’t until 1999 ‌that the Austin Revitalization Authority passed the Urban Renewal Plan to revive parts of East 11th and 12th streets. 

The early 2000s saw a re-injection of history and culture. Along with the arch, Charles Urdy Plaza was born, featuring a 50-ft shimmering mosaic, Rhapsody, representing some of East 11th’s celebrated musicians and characters. New cultural institutions popped up like Kenny Dorham’s Backyard, which sets the thoroughfare alive with blues and jazz. The Texas Music Museum brought its traveling exhibitions along with a marketing slogan, “Come Over to the East Side.” Dance studio, Ballet Afrique, opened in 2008 with a mission to offer youth “an opportunity to experience the richness of their own culture through the arts alongside other beautiful cultures represented in Austin.”

Cocktails,ambiance and a twist of kitsch: Busy Signal is a new Black-owned business speakeasy on East 11th. It’s attached by a faux phone booth to the historic Victory Grill and offers craft cocktails, small plates, and live music. 

Indeed, Austin’s recent rapid growth brought a mélange of new influences and, inevitably, new businesses. Ben’s Long Branch BBQ (est. 1981) became the crowd magnet that is Franklin Barbecue today. Old Thousand resides in the restored Street-Snell building, serving Chinese classics with a modern twist. The historic Haenel building was a booming business hub from the late 1800s through the 1900s that eventually fell on hard times before it was restored in 2001. It now houses Vintage Wine and Books, a charming roost for sippers and bibliophiles. 

For shoppers, there’s a cadre of clothing boutiques: Lovecraft, Kindred Spirits, Charm School Vintage. For travelers, the Frances Modern Inn, in its newly renovated building, offers an experience out of a vintage postcard era and houses the all-day Italian ‌restaurant, Poeta. Further down, Paper Boy has become a popular modern brunch spot, and Hillside Farmacy serves breakfast, lunch, dinner, and house-made sodas in its immersive, historic space. For those seeking simpler pleasures, Nickel City carried the “local dive” torch for its predecessor, Longbranch Inn, which opened in 1935. 

Along this walk, it is easy to be dazzled by all there is to eat, drink, see and do. But lest you forget the roots of this revitalization effort, look no further than the middle of the street. “Black Artists Matter” is loudly etched in yellow across both lanes. A collaboration between Capital View Arts and Austin Justice Coalition, the mural is a proud nod to the creatives and community members who keep Black voices alive in this historic boulevard-turned-travel destination.