The Neighborhood Cantina You Never Knew You Needed

Words by Jessi Devenyns Photos by Shelby Bella

Guests are welcome to come, to sit down, to have a drink, and maybe have a bite to eat. For owner Stephen Shallcross, it’s nothing to run this cantina; it’s just the pleasure of sharing a moment.

In fact, after a meal at De Nada, a “thank you” for the warm welcome is likely to be the phrase heard passing between tables. It is also a phrase that is certainly going to be spoken by Stephen, who attributes the existence of this restaurant to the relationships that he’s cultivated over his 20+ years of working in the restaurant industry. In particular, he takes his hat off to the kitchen staff who taught him the pleasure of a post-shift taco and libation.

“My favorite thing to eat for lunch for the last 26 years has been what they cooked for lunch in the kitchen,” reveals Stephen, who grins and says these meals often came with a cold beer. “And over the years, different chefs have contributed different recipes around their favorite carnitas, their favorite barbacoa, their favorite marinade for fish. Really just what they wanted to eat, but bringing it to share as a family meal.” As a result, De Nada’s simple menu has been defined by these humble contributions.

It is that simplicity that defines the dishes at this cantina, where the menu is 11 items long. Offering a short list of options to choose from that embrace uncomplicated, yet flavorful, comfort is what makes this taqueria so appealing. Nevertheless, the less-is-more attitude belies an attention to detail that is apparent in both the décor and layers of flavor that Stephen shrugs off as a natural part of creating a lovingly-prepared meal, saying, “It’s nothing” – an alternative translation of the restaurant’s name. 

While doing more with less is the backbone behind the concept of this taco bar, there is no indication that simplicity has hampered creativity in any way. Each corn tortilla is hand made on a comal from blue corn masa that is pressed between palms to create shapes that are as personal as the topping chosen for adornment. From barbacoa to fish to vegetables,  everything is contained within the warm folds of a fresh tortilla and complemented by a host of interesting flavors that pique the tongue and engage the senses. 

It is easy to get lost in the colors, scents, breezes, and chatter of the captivating space at De Nada. A bit of a Margaritaville oasis, one would not be faulted for feeling transported on vacation. And in fact, that ability to escape reality for a brief moment and create a watering hole for anyone at an enticing price point is what drove the collaboration that created the cantina. “In short,” says Stephen, “the taqueria is all the remarkable moments experienced in Mexico brought home to share.” 

“The most hospitable experiences I’ve ever had were in Mexico, and the most warm and lovingly-prepared meals I’ve ever had were in Mexico,” he says, wearing a wistful smile full of memories. At this colorful cantina, the love of tacos and bebidas not only speak to a long history of collaborative conviviality, but they also pay homage to the deep ties that Stephen and his staff have to Mexico. Whether it’s a grandmother’s recipe memorized as a child or several seasons spent working the restaurants of the Maya Riviera, Stephen explains that De Nada serves plates peppered with memorable culinary elements that define the regional cuisines of Mexico. 

Contact:
(512) 615-3555
4715 E Cesar Chavez St.
hablar@denadacantina.com
denadacantina.com