Crazy About Pumpkins
Old and new recipes for pumpkins this Thanksgiving.
Words by Kayla & Justin Butts Photos by Rachel Benavides
There is something particularly lovely, and distinctly American, about a pumpkin: the beauty, the flavor, the weight, the plain old wholesome goodness. Pumpkins are the perfect symbol of autumn from the forests of New England to the rolling hills of Central Texas.
Native Americans featured pumpkins in fall festivals a thousand years before Europeans landed at Plymouth Rock. They also passed their love of pumpkins to the newly-arrived, Pilgrim colonists, and pumpkin quickly became the most commonly served food at the table. The Pilgrims made pumpkins into bread, butter, sugar, sauce, and syrup. In fact, pumpkin was even brewed into beer.
These fall recipes feature roasted pumpkin and toasted seeds, the oldest and simplest preparations of all. Plus, for a Thanksgiving twist, try the pumpkin risotto and pumpkin cinnamon rolls!
As a home chef, never be intimidated by a huge or irregularly shaped pumpkin. A large pumpkin can easily be cut in half, saving the seeds, and slicing the halves into thick strips. Roasting a pumpkin is simple and will yield a bounty of sweet flesh with limitless uses. Toasted pumpkin seeds are a signature sign that autumn has arrived.
Pumpkin risotto is a perfect vegetarian dish, or just an elegant side on the Thanksgiving table. This risotto is rich, creamy, and savory.
Let’s not forget dessert. These decadent cinnamon rolls will become an instant family favorite, or a Thanksgiving breakfast tradition.
Look for heirloom pumpkin varieties at local farms: New England Sugar Pie, Rouge Vif D’ Etampes, Connecticut Field Pumpkin, or the lovely Galeux D’ Eysines. Winter squash such as Butternut, Acorn, or Blue Hubbard can be subbed out in any of these recipes.
Serving pumpkin at the Thanksgiving table is celebrating one of the most cherished traditions in America, and with these recipes, pumpkin may also become the new favorite!
Roasted Pumpkin
Cook Time: 35-45 minutes
Ingredients:
Pumpkin or large squash
(3-20 lbs.)
Directions:
Preheat oven to 375°F. Cut the pumpkin or squash in half and scrape out the seeds and pith. Reserve seeds for roasting at a later time. If pumpkin is larger than 5 lbs., cut into eighths to reduce cooking time. Place pumpkin or squash flesh side down on a baking sheet, and add 1 cup of water to the bottom of the pan. Check after 20 minutes and add more water if necessary. Cook until fork tender.
Pumpkin Risotto
Serves: 4
Prep time: 15 minutes
Cook time: 30 minutes
Ingredients:
2 T. olive oil
2 shallots, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 ½ c. aborino rice
½ c. dry white wine (recommend: vermouth or pinot grigio)
4-5 c. chicken or vegetable broth (homemade or high-qualty)
1 t. salt
½ t. freshly ground black pepper
½ t. poultry seasoning
¼ t. nutmeg (or about 4 grates of a fresh nutmeg)
1 lb. roasted pumpkin, diced
1 c. grated Pecorino cheese
Directions:
In a medium saucepan, heat stock until it begins to simmer. Reduce heat so that stock remains hot.
In a large, cast-iron or heavy- bottomed pan, heat olive oil over medium heat. Sauté shallots for 2 minutes. Add garlic and rice, stirring frequently, and sauté until the rice begins to release a nutty flavor. Add wine to the pan, stirring to incorporate the ingredients until the liquid has mostly absorbed (for about 5 minutes).
Ladle in ½ cup broth, stirring with a non-reactive spoon until moisture is absorbed. Add another ½ cup broth and repeat process, letting broth become absorbed until rice becomes creamy but still has a small amount of bite to it. Remove from heat and stir in remaining ingredients. Serve 1/3 cup for a side portion, and 2/3 cup for a meal portion.
Pumpkin Cinnamon Rolls
Makes: 1 dozen rolls
Prep time:20 minutes
Inactive prep time: 1 ½ hours
Cook time: 25 minutes
Ingredients for dough:
1 c. whole milk
6 T. butter
1/3 c. sugar
2 ¼ t. (1 packet) instant yeast
1 c. roasted pumpkin, pureed
3 ½ c. all-purpose flour
1 t. pumpkin spice
½ t. cinnamon
¼ t. salt
Ingredients for filling:
1 c. brown sugar
1/3 c. roasted pumpkin, pureed
2 T. melted butter
2 t. cinnamon
Ingredients for frosting:
4 oz. cream cheese at room temperature
1 c. confectioner’s sugar
2 T. whole milk
1 t. vanilla extract
Pinch of salt
Directions:
Combine milk, butter, and sugar in a large saucepan over medium heat until warm to the touch, about 120°F. Add yeast to milk mixture and stir to combine. Let stand for 5 minutes, until foamy. Stir pumpkin into yeast starter.
In a separate bowl, combine dry ingredients. Stir dry ingredients into yeast mixture until well incorporated. Knead dough by hand or in a standing mixer for about 7 minutes, until a smooth elastic dough is formed. Let dough sit in a warm place for at least an hour, or until doubled in size.
In a medium-sized bowl, combine ingredients for the filling. Once dough has doubled, tip it onto a floured work surface. Roll dough into about a 12”x15” rectangle. Brush on filling until entire surface is covered. Starting with the longer side, roll the dough tightly, in the style of a jelly roll. Using dental floss, cut the roll into 9-12 sections. Place pieces cut side down into a 9×13” pan and cover with a kitchen towel. Let proof an additional 30-60 minutes.
Remove towel and bake for 20-25 minutes, or until the center has set. Cool on a wire rack.
Combine ingredients for frosting in a large bowl or standing mixer and beat until smooth.
Roasted Pumpkin Seeds
Prep time: 5 minutes
Cook time: 40 minutes
Ingredients:
Pumpkin seeds and/or large squash seeds, rinsed with pith removed
1-2 T. olive oil
Sea salt to taste
Directions:
Preheat oven to 250°F. Spread seeds evenly on a baking sheet. Drizzle seeds with olive oil and sprinkle generously with salt. Hand toss to distribute seasoning. Cook for about 40 minutes, stirring the seeds every ten minutes to prevent burning. Seeds are done when they are golden brown, crisp, and have a nutty fragrance.
