Eat Contigo
Casual Dining That Is Not Careless
Words by Jessi Devenyns Photos by Shelby Bella
This friendly neighborhood eatery opened in 2011 and ever since then has been a favorite with neighbors. The concept is a riff off the co-owner, Ben Edgerton’s family ranch in South Texas – which also happens to go by the name of Contigo.
While there are a few differences in the awe-factor between a working ranch and a neighborhood eatery, Contigo (the restaurant) still offers a setting for the most mundane moments to become momentous. As soon as the knotty barn doors swing open at 5PM, the patio is already half full; neighbors order the bar’s signature Painkiller cocktail to fend off the rays of afternoon sunshine as they relax on the shaded patio. Others are opting for the refreshing Pepino whose cucumber, lime, and tequila slurry pair well with the hints of mint in each sip.
Everything about Contigo is casual. Even the building, which used to be an east-facing welding shop, is now a utilitarian food barn decorated in wood, metal, and leather. The simplicity of it all, however, only makes the chef’s dishes more spectacular. At Contigo, casual does not mean less. The food is a creative interplay with the seasons, and preservation plays a large role.
Chef de Cuisine Patrick Bellenoit says preservation is the key to not only introducing fun flavors and cooking with out-of-season produce, but it is also a good way to be mindful of excesses. “We try to produce as minimal amount of waste as we can,” he explains. That means every usable part of a plant and animal gets used. From house-made charcuterie to pickled watermelon rinds, the close relationship that the restaurant maintains with farmers is the catalyst for their menu. “If [the farmers] happen upon something they don’t want, we’ll take it because we know how to use it,” Bellenoit comments.
And they do.
Their garlic lebhah – a spreadable Middle Eastern yogurt dip – features pickled strawberries and ramps that are complemented by garlic and dill. The whole ensemble is sprinkled with poppy seeds and paired with red wheat crackers for balance. Similarly, the bavette steak impresses with its tender flesh laid atop a bed of
serrano-stewed black beans. There’s also some cilantro crème fraîche “to kind of cut through all the fattiness of everything,” explains Bellenoit. “And some really good onions because they’re really good with steak.”
For something homier, try the Memphis dry rubbed chicken wings. Although seemingly simple, Bellenoit assures that there is more than meets the eye. “They’re brined for 24 hours, then smoked for a few hours until they’re almost done. Then they’re cooled down, deep-fried, and rubbed with a Memphis barbecue rub. So it’s a little bit sweet, a little bit spicy,” he says. For an extra zip, they’re paired with pickled watermelon rinds.
However, much like the ranch by which this restaurant is inspired, it would all be for naught without the people. Indeed, even the chef agrees. “Most importantly,” Bellenoit says, “I love the people.”
The Happiest
Happy hour is Monday-Thursday from 5-7PM with reduced price bar snacks, $1 off draft beer, $1 off wine by the glass, and $2 off signature cocktails.
Contact
(512) 614-2260
2027 Anchor Lane
contigotexas.com/austin
info@contigoaustin.com
