Chef Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel {Birdie’s}
Not every neighborhood in East Austin can claim walkability to a Michelin recommended restaurant, but Rosewood residents of the 12th Street block know that an exceptionally crafted seasonal meal is just a breezy stroll away. Chef Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel runs a scrappy kitchen at Birdie’s, the counter-service eatery that, in just under five years of operation, garnered national attention for its Italian and French-inspired fare. The 2024 James Beard Award Finalist works with what she has. Her menu is nothing less than a form-fitting outline of any given evening’s creative dishes
Q: What’s a hidden gem in East Austin that more people should know about?
TM: Ensenada for the best Baja fried fish and fried shrimp tacos. They’re topped with shredded cabbage, salsa, and mayo; it’s so good. It’s in the food park on East 12th Street. Also, Cuantos Tacos for Suadero Tacos and the best beans of your life. We are so fortunate on 12th Street. Shout out to our good friends at Nixta, who are, of course, serving wonderful food and featuring awesome pop-ups.
Q: What’s the one dish in East Austin everyone should try at least once?
TM: Este’s Cachetada taco is seared Wagyu Ribeye with melted cheese that forms a “golden crust,” tomatillo salsa, and charred onions on their made-to-order corn tortilla. Yes, please! And I can’t go there without ordering their mezcal margarita.
Q: What’s one thing about Austin’s food scene that people don’t talk about enough? Or that you wished more people knew?
TM: More people should check out Boggy Creek Farm from 8am to 1pm, Wednesday through Saturday. You can grab local fresh eggs (from their chickens, depending on the time of year), the most vibrant and peppery arugula you’ve ever tasted, and other seasonal vegetables they grow on their farm. Support your local farmer!
Q: What’s an underrated restaurant in East Austin that deserves more attention?
TM: Holiday. I know it gets talked about a lot for its cocktails (they are amazing), but their food is also great, and more people should eat a meal there, too! That’s one of the spots we send chef friends when visiting from out of town. I think it’s my favorite burger in town.
Q: What’s a local restaurant that’s doing something truly unique?
TM: Canje. It’s fantastic Carribean food cooked with both heart and technique. Everything is delicious, but especially don’t miss the braised beef patties, Jerk chicken, and roti. It’s spicy and vibrant. I find myself craving this often.
Q: What is the thing you cook most at home?
TM: Tacos! I am from Houston, so Tex-Mex and Mexican food are definite favorites. I make refried beans with guanciale (cured pork cheek which is a staple ingredient in our fridge) almost every week for a quick taco or tostada at any meal of the day. Depending on the meal, I top them with cheesy eggs in the morning, roasted vegetables for lunch, or braised beef for dinner, each with guacamole and hot sauce, obviously.
Q: Do you make your own items from scratch?
TM: I have a two-year-old, so I will keep it real. No, I am definitely not fermenting at home. We make healthy-ish pancakes together. No measurements, I just eyeball ingredients: Barton Springs Mill Rouge de Bordeaux flour, oat flour, Boggy Creek eggs, full-fat yogurt, milk, flax seeds, vanilla, cinnamon, a little baking powder, and soda, then stud them with bananas or blueberries before flipping. It takes 5 minutes, and he loves to help cook. This is important because I am teaching my son early about the fundamentals of cooking and even life. Cooking teaches patience and focus, and if he spills something, we say ‘uh-oh’ and clean it up together. I want to give him confidence in the kitchen. I did not grow up cooking, and no matter what he decides to do with his life, I want to give him the tools to be empowered to cook. We also have a small garden in our backyard that we take care of together, too.
Q: Where do you find inspiration? What keeps you motivated to continue creating?
TM: My cooking style is part Italian grandma, part French chef, and I am inspired by what our farmers are growing. I also check my weather app often. We have more stick-to-your-ribs-style dishes in the winter and lighter cuisine in the summer. I don’t really recipe-test; I sketch out a rough recipe. Then we cook and taste as we go. My style is simple and straightforward, but as most chefs know, simple isn’t easy.
