The Bioluminescent Bay

Words & Photos by Eric Morales

Waking up in Vieques, Puerto Rico, is like waking up into a dream. The weather offers the best kind of hot: the kind of hot that is satisfied by the cool, salty water of the ocean. Rhythmic waves rise and fall, creating a soft and steady applause to celebrate the sunrise, and the cool colors
of night fade into the warmest golds.

Day One

A swim at sunrise is invigorating and the perfect way to begin a day in Vieques, a secluded island off Puerto Rico’s coast. Waist deep, the sound of the ocean and the bright light of the new day’s sun silences any scattered thoughts, and any desire to be elsewhere instantly vanishes. It’s an opportunity to experience the present. Time ceases to be a measure of any value, and everything settles within as you match the rhythm of nature. The mind is quiet; the soul is quiet. And, like a child, you begin to notice once again that it is often the smallest things like the trees gently swaying in the wind that bring forth the greatest beauty. After the serene morning swim, spend the rest of the day beach hopping and exploring the gorgeous beaches such as Playa Grande, Black Sand Beach, Sun Bay Beach, and Caracas Beach, to name a few.

Day Two

Away from nature trails and beaches, but not far, is the center of town. Horses populate the small island almost like deer populate neighborhoods in Austin’s hill country. Driving through town with the windows down, horses can be seen casually lounging in front yards or crossing the main street like pedestrians.

Later in the afternoon, peek over the pier at Mosquito Bay to catch a glimpse of young fishermen spearfishing in the clear blue-green waters. They may offer advice on where to swim for the day to avoid the jellyfish or the safest path to get into the water. Locals often stop their daily routine for small talk and make beach recommendations.

After a snorkel and meeting a few starfish, take a short drive to one of two fish markets on the island so dinner can be prepared in local style. At the first market, grab a cold beer with lime while browsing for the catch of the day.

Day Three

A scheduled Sunday morning horse ride through the town and down to the beach feels casual, with frequent stops to sample fruit straight from the trees. The neighbors wave and greet with smiles, taking a few lines of conversation with the guide. A gallop on the beach and plans of a return trip are already in mind. This laidback, casual island, where locals know you by name, will make you want to casually look at the prices of real estate later, just for fun.

There is truly no shortage of things to do in Vieques, whether visiting the bioluminescent bay or attending one of the traditional celebratory festivals held throughout the year. But, the best part of Vieques is that visitors don’t have to go far, or do much, to enjoy this quiet island.

If You Go… The Vieques Wildlife Refuge and hiking trails are free and currently open Monday through Friday, so plan accordingly.

Getting Around: Car rental is the best way to go, followed by high-powered golf carts, and if you know what you’re doing, maybe a horse.

Where to Stay: There are plenty of options on Airbnb, and almost every spot has a view. But beware, there are no address numbers for homes, only names of homes.

Discover more weekend vacation spots here.