A Weekend In {Terlingua, TX}

The Old West 2.0

Words by Ben Haguewood

People often talk about vacation as a time to ‘get away’ only to spend their time cramming into theme parks, standing in lines, waiting for a table at a crowded restaurant, or boxing out for a small parcel of sand on the beach. Terlingua stands as the antitheses of all those diversions. In fact, none of those things are really an option, and mobile phone service is spotty at best. There’s desert, sky, solitude, hot days, cool nights, and long segments of time that are surprisingly peaceful. So forward the phones, turn on the automatic replies, point the car west, and drive.

Day One

Driving west on I-10 through the hill country towards to the desert, make a stop in Alpine. There are no breweries in Terlingua, so the last chance for fresh beer is at Brick Vault Brewery and Smokehouse in Alpine’s historic Gage Hotel. It’s a great place to fill a growler, grab some true Texas style barbecue, and be on your way.

The purpose of the trip is to enjoy the peaceful landscape, so try something a little different that brings nature closer. Book a tipi at Basecamp Terlingua, or consider one its transparent bubbles for true luxury beneath the stars.

Day Two

It’s time to see what’s out here. The best way to cover a lot of ground (or water) is on horseback or floating the Rio Grande. Lajitas and Big Bend Stables help visitors saddle up. If water is more your style, there are several river guides who will take guests down the Rio Grande through the majestic Santa Elena Canyon, or for the adventurous, rent a boat and be your own guide.

While in the area, eat like a local. At the Starlight Diner, patrons can catch live Texas tunes, and order up tequila-marinated Texas quail, wild boar sausages, or the Texas Red chili that’s made the area famous.

Day Three

Staying in that sleeping bag until the sun warms up the desert valley may be tempting, but the sunrises in West Texas are not to be missed.

Pack up early and head for the hills: the Christmas Mountains to be more precise. The range is situated on research property owned by the Texas State University System, so visitors need to get a permit in advance. A little extra effort will go a long way because hikers are rewarded with miles of spectacular 360 degree views. When it’s time to head back, Espresso Y Poco Mas will fuel the return back to the big city.

Christmas Mountains

Permit applications for day use of Christmas Mountains as well as topographical maps can be obtained from the Terlingua Ranch Lodge or are also available at
www.tsus.edu/about-tsus/research/christmas-mountains.html
Vehicle permits can be obtained through the Terlingua Ranch Lodge:
www.terlinguaranch.com/christmas-mountains

Discover more weekend vacation spots here.