A Weekend in {Oaxaca}
Spanish Traditions
Words & Photos by Katy Chadwell
Día de los Muertos, Day of the Dead, is a celebration of life and death observed in Mexico and many Latin American and Hispanic cultures. The festivities take place on November 1 and 2 each year, making the fall the perfect time to head south of the border for the festivities.
Friday
The 16th-century Convent of Santa Catalina de Siena in which the Quinta Real Oaxaca hotel resides is an attraction in its own right, especially the ancient fountain, community wash basins, faded frescoes and other original works of art. Drop your bags at the hotel and wander through the center of Oaxaca to visit the Church of Santo Domingo de Guzmán. Learn about the area’s history and biodiversity while strolling through the lush landscapes and cacti at the adjacent Ethnobotanical Garden.
Oaxaca is one of the most biologically diverse regions in Mexico. The agave plant grows abundantly in the countryside and is used to produce mezcal, an artisanal spirit specific to Oaxaca and increasingly popular in the states. A tasting at Mezcaloteca is a fun way to learn about the varietals of tequila’s more complex, often smokier, sibling while supporting artisanal mezcal producers. Follow it up with dinner at El Destilado.
Saturday
If your interest in mezcal has been piqued, plan a day trip outside the city to learn about mezcal production near the town of Santiago Matatlan. Make Tule the first stop, and see the largest tree in the world, a Montezuma cypress measuring in at a circumference of 190 feet! Then be amazed by the masonry at Mitla, Zapotec ruins built between 450-700 A.D. Natives have hand cut each stone to create 14 different patterns found throughout the site. Local weavers still use those same motifs today. Next up is Hierve el Agua, which means boiling water, but the petrified falls are actually cold. Swimming is optional but is a nice way to cool off if the weather is warm.
There are 37 different types of agave native to the state of Oaxaca, and mezcal is produced from both cultivated and wild plants. There are several small producers throughout the countryside who offer tastings and tours. See the process from start to finish at Gracias a Dios—guests might even catch a donkey in action grinding the charred leaves. Be sure to try their gin made from agave as well! Mezcal Dainzu will be the final stop prior to dinner at Criollo once back in town. The inventive Oaxacan cuisine from Chefs Enrique Olvera and Luis Arellano will leave diners craving more.
Sunday
Start the day with tacos and empanadas at one of the city’s most famous street vendors, Tacos De Comal Plaza Del Carmen. Enjoy panoramic views of Oaxaca from the hilltop ruins of Monte Alban. Located a 20 minute cab ride from the city center, the pre-Colombian site is the most significant in the Oaxaca Valley.
Mercado 20 de Noviembre is the spot for a late lunch, where visitors can peruse the myriad of food stalls, and carnivores will love the El Pasillo de las Carnes Asadas (aka grilled meats) aisle. If you’re ready to further immerse yourself in mezcal culture, go for another tasting at In Situ Mezcaleria.
Dia de los Muertos: Expect to find the city transformed as locals prepare to welcome their loved ones spirits back to earth. A trip to the market is essential to see all of the items that go into the festive altars. A highlight during this time is a visit to the cemeteries. October 31 is the day that families spend time together at the graves of their loved ones. One of the main cemeteries to visit is Panteón General, also known as Panteón San Miguel. Go to the Panteón Viejo and Panteón Nuevo (the old and new cemeteries) in the village of Xoxocotlán, a 20-minute taxi ride outside Oaxaca City, to catch the evening memorials. November 1 serves as the day to honor children while November 2 is the actual Day of the Dead intended to honor adults.
Katy Chadwell is a travel advisor at Austin-based Century Travel and welcomes the opportunity to help you plan a trip to wherever your travels may lead you! Contact her at katy@century-tvl.com or (512) 327-8760, and let her take the stress out of planning your next vacation!
