A Weekend In Memphis

River Town

Words by Ben Haguewood Photos By Craig Thompson

Texas is known for its beef brisket, but Memphis is all about the pig. From pork shoulder, pork ribs, pig tails, & pig ears, tail-to-snout cooking is on the menu.

On paper, Austin and Memphis have a lot in common. Both are medium-sized towns with a musical legacy, delicious BBQ, and both sit on the banks of a river.

The Mississippi River, into which Memphis seemingly threatens to slide, in comparison to Austin’s Colorado, is the broadest basin geographically in the U.S.. The river spans the length of the country, making it the fourth longest river in the world. It drains 32 states, runs over 2300 miles and is deeper, wider, and dirtier than any other. Though the river is massive and can’t be missed, there is much more to Memphis that makes it a fascinating city to visit.

There are plenty of museums and tours. But if time is of the essence, it’s best to hold off on more cerebral impulses, and let your mouth and ears do the learning. You’ll soon see what the town is all about and hit the most important contemporary cultural spots in the process.

Friday

Visitors could spend months or years exploring all the off-the-rack BBQ and soul food joints across town, but it’s hard to imagine anyone being disappointed with a first stop at Payne’s. Brisket aficionados love to talk about the ‘bark’ on a good Texas brisket, and at Payne’s, patrons will find the same crackly, charred crust on their pork shoulder, chopped and mixed into a heaping pile of dripping pork onto a cakey white bun. (Local tip: Get the slaw on the sandwich, and don’t forget to ask for a fork.)

Every list of best Memphis BBQ will include The Rendezvous, of Food Channel fame and prominently featured in early John Grisham legal thriller, The Firm. It’s a memorable meal, but be advised—it is its own unique dry-rub, charcoal grilled preparation. Give it a shot, but don’t make it your only BBQ stop while in Memphis. There’s always Cozy Corner, Central BBQ, various Tops BBQ locations, and many more.

Saturday

With a replete stomach, now it’s time to soothe the soul. Blues tones scream from the famous clubs on Beale Street, like BB King’s Blues Club and Mr. Handy’s Blues Hall. Think of Beale Street as a cross between Austin’s 6th Street and New Orleans’ Bourbon Street. But for a true step-back-in-time blues experience, check out Wild Bill’s. The raucous juke joint has a revolving band made up of musicians who have backed up legendary R&B artists past and present on any night of the week. Grab a 40, sit back, and relax. You’ll be treated to a mix of classics you’ll know by heart and new tunes that sound like you ought to know.

Sunday

What else is there to do in Memphis? Plenty. This is where Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. took his last breath, and the Civil Rights Museum preserves and celebrates his legacy. Elvis’s Graceland in all its sublime gaudiness of America’s first rock star is truly unforgettable. Check the schedule for the NBA’s Memphis Grizzlies‘ home schedule at the FedEx Forum or the minor league Red b irds stadium. To really get a flavor of the town, book a river cruise on the Memphis Queen, which leaves from Mud Island.
There are so many great ways to spend the weekend in Memphis. But if you only do blues and BBQ, don’t feel bad. It’s an experience all its own.

All Ears

For something a little saltier—in every way imaginable—try the pig-ear sandwich at Big Apple Inn. Think of it as chewy bacon, and if you don’t love it, it will only set you back a couple of bucks. And wherever you go, if you see bologna or tamales on the menu, it’s no joke—give them a shot.