A Weekend at Caddo Lake
A Magical Cypress Forest Bayou
Words and Photos by Tanya White of @InPlainSightPhotos
Named after the Native American Caddo Tribe, Caddo Lake is one of the few natural lakes in the southern U.S. The cypress tree forest is the largest of its kind in the world, creating a magical backdrop on this bayou that straddles both Texas and Louisiana.
Day One
No interstate highways will get you to this remote corner of Texas. Plan a leisurely drive through several historically rich small towns. Use the Texas Historical Markers Guide app while road tripping and follow some of the greatest stories about the founding years of Texas. The useful guide also includes area information about the Caddoan Tribe, the development of Caddo Lake as a major oil area, and about the sinking of the Mittie Stephens in 1869 that killed almost 70 people. Once an important thoroughfare between Shreveport, Louisiana, and Jefferson, Texas, the largest riverport trading town in the area, this northeast corner of Texas has many historical stories to tell.
Nearing Caddo Lake, Jefferson, Texas is worth spending extra time to explore. The main street is lined with buildings that date back to the early 1900s, and there are many restaurants and historical landmarks to browse. Being the Bigfoot Capital of Texas, don’t leave without getting a photo taken with Bigfoot.
Depending on the choice of overnight lodging, make sure to arrive during daylight hours for easier travel. Opt for an Airbnb near Uncertain, Texas, which is around the corner from the state park or one in Oil City, Louisiana.
Fun Fact: A mystery-thriller movie, The Vanishings at Caddo Lake produced by
M. Night Shyamalan, is scheduled to release in 2022.
Day Two
To fully experience Caddo Lake and all her glory, be sure to explore her during all phases of daylight. Get up early the first day and watch the sunrise break through the moss hanging from the cypress trees. It is eerie and magical. Hopefully, a slight breeze will be blowing which makes everything feel like it’s alive as the sunlight shimmers against the water. Head over to the Texas Caddo Lake State Park and enjoy all the activities that it has to offer: paddling, fishing, and birdwatching. There are over 50 miles of paddling trails in the area. To experience the otherworldly surroundings, bring a kayak, or rent a canoe. There are boat ramps dotted along the lakeshore and marinas where boat rentals are also available. For a lengthier excursion to explore the 26,000 acres of Bald Cypress forest, Spanish moss, abundant wildlife, and scenery, consider hiring a local for a guided tour.
Plan to be on the park dock at Mill Pond for sunset, where there’s enough room to bring chairs and a cooler to enjoy happy hour. Consider having a picnic day, grabbing breakfast on the go from one of the outposts. For dinner, there are a few options, but it depends on the time of year. Call restaurants ahead of time to make sure they’re open, or return to Jefferson where more options abound.
Day Three
Have breakfast in the small, lakeside town of Uncertain. At a population around 100, it’s not much of a town, but the views from Shady Glade Café are a perfect way to enjoy the extraordinary cypress forest. Waving goodbye to the magic of the lake, make a brief pitstop in Karnack and visit the birthplace of Lady Bird Johnson just a few miles outside of town on Highway 43.
Consider making the less than hour drive southwest to Martin Creek Lake State Park for one final stop. Fishing and birding enthusiasts will be giddy to find the on-lake power plant, which keeps the temperature of the water higher than typical, impacting the entire natural ecosystem of the area. For example, the warmth of the water earlier in season means that about a month before the bass are spawning in other parts, they’re already spawning here. Try the one-mile Island Trails hike to to stretch the legs before returning home.
If You Go…
Getting Around: A reliable vehicle is a must for the Caddo Lake area. While there are many small charming towns in the areathere aren’t many garages or national brand gas stations. Diesel vehicles will need to be filled in one of the larger towns nearby, like Jefferson, Marshall, Texarkana, or Shreveport, depending on the route that is taken to get to Caddo Lake area.
Forecast: Regardless of the season, expect it to be humid. Summer highs in the 90s are going to feel much hotter, and the winter lows that hover above freezing chill to the bone. Bring bug spray no matter the season.
Things to Know: While Texas does not have the highest number of alligators in the US, Caddo Lake has one of the highest reptile populations.