A Taste of the Modernized West {Little Trouble}

Local Chicken Experience

Finding a ‘Little Trouble’ in Lockhart, Texas

Words by Abby L. Johnson Photos by Eric Morales

The ‘Little City with the Big Heart’ is primarily known for its legendary barbecue. But for those who choose to dig a little deeper, it quickly becomes apparent that Lockhart has so much more to offer in fine dining than meets the eye.

In the search for a ‘Little Trouble,’ it is almost too easy to pass by this hidden gem. At the last second, a simple neon sign grabs passerby’s attention and beckons them into a subterranean world. To enter the restaurant, patrons must descend a flight of stairs into the dimly lit basement level restaurant. Small candles in crystalware dot the tables and bar, adding a pervasive sultry feeling. The shock of taxidermied animals keeping watch over their terrain like frozen scenes from an old Western is a point of conversation that can’t be ignored. Despite the sense that Little Trouble exists in another timeline, small anachronistic details will remind patrons that they have not, in fact, time traveled. A large, seductive poster of Dolly Parton graces the wall behind the bar, making for a more genuine and less cinematic or theatrical feel while maintaining a sense of whimsy.

Cozy up under Dolly’s watch at the worn bar for the evening to sample a number of house cocktails that are available. One standout is a smoky version of the classic Prohibition-era cocktail Last Word. This iteration subs the gin in favor of Mezcal. Small choices like the inclusion of the Last Word make this place feel like a secret speakeasy from another universe. For a filling starter to accompany this strong drink, order the ‘Chicken’ Fried Mushrooms. Fried oyster mushrooms, served with a tangy chipotle sauce that elevates and honors the barbecue traditions of the city, is the grown up, vegetable-based version of chicken tenders. Succulent and hearty, they are just enough to whet the appetite in preparation for the meal to come.

The concise menu, like the space, is full of small surprises. One vaguely named main course, ‘Vegetables,’ appears unassuming, but this medley of fresh produce is not an afterthought. Though the plate changes with the seasons, one constant is that every item on the plate is prepared differently. Some may be pickled, others roasted, but all are seasoned to bring out their respective, unique qualities. A bit of texture is added by the crunchy quinoa delicately sprinkled on top.

For larger groups, the Local Chicken Experience will easily serve a crowd. Fresh roti bread sits next to a large roasted half chicken, seasoned simply, and cooked to perfection. The ingredients of the Red and Green Sauce that accompany the platter are a secret kept close to the chests of the kitchen staff. But that doesn’t keep diners from diving into the unknown flavors and savoring the experience.

At the end of the meal, the check is brought to patrons hidden inside the pages of old pulpy, paperback western novels. Wedged in those pages, one can only imagine, are tales of a space and time that elicits the same feeling that the atmosphere and cuisine of Little Trouble has painstakingly created.

Native Knowledge: Little Trouble’s head chef Casey Wilcox, formerly head chef at Justine’s Brasserie, will be part of Aaron Franklin’s massive upcoming food fest. Catch him and a plethora of other Austin chefs on May 28 at Hot Luck Fest for live food demonstrations, music, and more at Wild Onion Ranch. Snag tickets at hotluckfest.com.

Contact:
101 E San Antonio St.
littletroublelockhart.com
@littletrouble.lockhartx