Words by Jessi Devenyns Photos by Baptiste Despois
Hillside Farmacy’s shaded windows look out onto East 11th Street where passersby amble along the sidewalk. Occasionally they glance into the historic interior of this neighborhood establishment. Many enter through the historic wooden double-doors. Those doors have swung on their hinges for generations.
What is today a restaurant featuring farm-to-table fare was formerly a po’boy shop, a barber shop, and a bookstore. Before that, as the name hints, it was a drugstore owned and operated by Doc Young, one of the first African American pharmacists in Austin. His descendants still own the building and live right down the street. However, two other families run this neighborhood eatery that has served Austin for 11 years now.
Over the course of their long partnership, Hillside’s co-owners Sonya Coté and Jade Place-Mathews have both brought their spouses and children into the lively world of cooking, eating, and entertaining. Along the way, staff have joined the windmill of activity that powers Hillside. Many of those staff stay for years, and those who leave often come back to catch up over a glass of wine at a bar. That bar has supported thousands of elbows and absorbed generations of stories.
No social hour would be complete without the fresh, local flavors whipped into the dishes that are at the heart of Hillside. Behind the scenes, chefs squeeze past each other, chattering and sharing on-the-fly fixes. They do this as they work the line.
The size of the kitchen looks much as it would at home. However, that space is what nurtured the camaraderie that gave rise to iconic dishes that define their menu. Among these are perfectly built burgers, blackened gulf drum with creamy polenta, and mac & cheese made with taleggio and aged white cheddar.
“[The space] has a lot of character, so it breeds a certain creativity,” says Sonya. That creativity shines in the dishes that are whisked out across the geometric black and white tiles to diners in swanky booths. Those booths are lined in deep green vinyl.
Contact:
1209 E 11th St.
hillsidefarmacy.com
